Cover (Photo: Mister Mister

Know which watch to wear depending on the occasion

Choosing the right watch can make or break your outfit. While there is no one-size-fits-all concept in watch collecting, knowing what to wear is essential. Whether you’re attending a formal event, a casual gathering, or an important business meeting, having the correct timepiece determines whether you make a lasting impression.

To help you know which watch to sport for your affairs, Tatler asked watch enthusiast and one of Vintage Grail founders Paolo Martel to get his recommendations.

More from Tatler: Introducing: Tatler GMT, an exclusive community to connect watch enthusiasts and inspire passion

Black tie - Patek Philippe 5327R Perpetual Calendar

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Patek Philippe 5327R Perpetual Calendar (Photo: Patek Philippe)
Above Patek Philippe 5327R Perpetual Calendar (Photo: Patek Philippe)

A black tie dress code is reserved for formal events. Here, guys are expected to sport sharp suits and sleek tuxedos. Elegance is critical when choosing the right watch to complement this attire.

A combination of timeless appeal and attention to detail—the Patek Philippe 5327R Perpetual Calendar boasts a Calatrava case with beautifully scalloped lugs and applied Breguet numerals. Its ability to accurately display the day, month, and leap year without manual adjustment is a testament to masterful crafting. The yellow and rose gold models feature ivory lacquered dials with recessed counters. At the same time, the white-gold version has a blue sunburst dial, making it the perfect complement to any formal atmosphere.

Cocktail - Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1a Blue Dial

Tatler Asia
Nautilus 5711/1a Blue Dial (Photo: Vintage Grail)
Above Nautilus 5711/1a Blue Dial (Photo: Vintage Grail)

A cocktail dress code isn’t as strict as black tie. It is somewhere between formal and casual, day and night. It’s best to wear a suit and play with the colour story. A navy blue, oak or grey suit will do the trick!

An icon of its own, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1a with a blue dial is highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts worldwide. Its bold aesthetics with its rounded octagonal-shaped case gives it a sporty yet refined design, while its deep blue dial adds a touch of uniqueness. Though it was discontinued in 2021 without announcement, it only increased its following. The Nautilus 5711/1a Blue Dial’s subtle pop of colour, understated elegance, and iconic status all make it an excellent choice for formal social gatherings that don’t demand too much.

Also see: New Seiko Premium Boutique opens at Mitsukoshi BGC

Business casual - Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 39mm

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Photo: Vintage Grail)
Above Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Photo: Vintage Grail)

A business casual dress code can be broad, ranging from traditional business wear to a more relaxed style. It is important to give it a thought and stray away from shorts, jeans and casual shirts. For this, you can never go wrong with clothes that suit your taste, and a watch to boot.

Given its status as the first luxury sports watch, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak defined the standard. Introduced in 1972, it revolutionised the industry with a distinctive design that suits any affair. Though the Royal Oak had plenty of variations over the years, Martel especially recommends the “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 39mm model for its subtle yet loud appearance on your wrist. Available in various dial colour options like blue, black and silver, you can personalise it to match your tastes.

Casual - Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Tatler Asia
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona (Photo: Rolex)
Above Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona (Photo: Rolex)

And lastly, we have casual wear. This is where you have a bigger space to mix and match your clothes to your watches. One thing to remember: watches should complement an outfit and not stick out like a sore thumb.

A timepiece that’s synonymous with versatility, luxury, and precision, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona is every watch enthusiast’s go-to. Its virtually scratchproof ceramic bezel, paired with a modest white dial, makes it a perfect watch for everyday affairs. It also carries enough prestige to be worn at dressier events.

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