Rexhep Rexhepi's elegantly built chronometer has been enhanced with antimagnetic protection in the form of a non-magnetic stainless steel case with a double caseback construction. The screwed-down back can be removed to reveal a sapphire crystal whereupon one can admire the manual-winding movement. A Faraday cage surrounding the dial and movement provides an additional shield. The watch features a zero-reset seconds where the seconds hand returns to zero when the crown is pulled to wind the watch—such action ensures better precision.

Who is it for?

Connoisseurs who enjoy traditional craftsmanship with a contemporary touch.

Estimate: CHF100,000 to CHF150,000 (US$110,000 to US$165,000)

Richard Mille has created a unique piece called the RMS14 for the Only Watch auction. The watchmaker’s interpretation of a mysterious golden relic, nicknamed Talisman Origine, this pendant was discovered in the heart of the Swiss mountains. The relic is made of rhodonite, titanium, and gold with engraved symbols, and the RMS14 is a tribute to what the pendant could have looked like centuries ago. The RMS14 goes beyond the concept of a watch and is fully hand-engraved, integrating rhodonite and wood parts. The watch will come with a necklace made of Swiss grapevine wood, marble, and rhodonite.

Who is it for?

Jewellery lovers who have a penchant for timepieces.

Estimate: CHF600,000 to CHF800,000 (US$660,000 to US$880,000)

The whimsical smiling flower of Takashi Murakami is given a haute horlogerie pairing with a central tourbillon, which was a special request from the Japanese artist himself. The MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch is the first Hublot watch to feature a central flying tourbillon that is seemingly suspended in mid-air with two hands passing under its cage to indicate the hours and the minutes. The poetic spin finds a kindred spirit in Murakami's flower set with 444 coloured gemstones. 

Who is it for?

Art lovers who enjoy Murakami's joyful creations

Estimate: CHF350,000 to CHF400,000

Biver has created a unique timepiece for the Only Watch auction called Catharsis. The minute repeater carillon tourbillon watch is made of titanium and features no visible display of time. Instead, the dial combines unusual handcrafts with an invisible gem-setting, stone marquetry, and guilloché. The concept of the watch is to replace the display of time with a true work of art that enhances the timepiece. An hour hand is located on the back of the watch for a visual display of time seen through the sapphire back. The unusual minute repeater represents a sunset over a rough sea. The watch is waterproof to 50m.

Who is it for?

Collectors of art and lovers of sports-themed timepieces

Estimate: CHF 500,000 to 700,000 (US$ 550,000 to 770,000)

Read more: Richard Mille unveils the RM 72-01 Le Mans Classic

For its first appearance at the Only Watch auction, Gerald Genta has created a unique timepiece called the Gérald Genta Only Watch 2023. The watch features a minute repeater complication and a retrograde display of time with an animated Mickey Mouse, a beloved character that has played a central role in the Gérald Genta brand since the 1980s. The watch is housed in a white gold octagonal case and features a champlevé enamel dial with a smiling enamelled Mickey Mouse holding a birthday cake aloft.

Who is it for?

The watch is expected to attract collectors of both vintage and modern timepieces.

Estimate: CHF350,000 to CHF500,000 (US$385,000 to US$550,000)

Patek Philippe has created an exclusive limited-edition wristwatch as a tribute to Philippe Stern, the honorary president of the company who turned 85 in November. The watch features a grand complication with an entirely new movement designed and produced exclusively for this tribute watch. This 30-piece limited edition includes a unique Only Watch design version, with the first timepiece being offered to the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies for its fundraising auction in favour of research on Muscular Dystrophies and genetic diseases. Patek Philippe is honouring the exceptional career of Philippe Stern while supporting a cause that is dear to the Stern family.

Who is it for?

Legacy seekers, looking to own a part of history.

Estimate: Undisclosed

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Audemars Piguet has created a unique timepiece for the Only Watch auction called the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked Only Watch Edition. The watch features a white ceramic case and bracelet with a blue-toned openworked movement, and its unique design offers a contemporary contrast. The watch’s openworked architectural design showcases the flying tourbillon cage and the rhodium-toned gear train, while refined Haute Horlogerie decorations adorn each component. The watch has a blue inner bezel, white gold hour-markers, and hands filled with luminescent coating for optimum visibility in the dark.

Who is it for?

Collectors of Audemars Piguet timepieces and contemporary design watches.

Estimate: CHF300,000 to CHF350,000 (US$385,000 to US$495,000)

The Piaget Polo Skeleton Arty is a brightly coloured unique watch which pays homage to the Hexa Grace artwork by Victor Vasarely exhibited in Monaco. The watch features an ultra-thin Manufacture calibre 1200S1 with green, blue, and rose-gold colored skeletonised bridges specifically designed for this piece. The watch is housed in an 18k pink gold cushion-shaped case with a sapphire case back and comes with an interchangeable blue calf leather strap with green stitches.

Who is it for?

 Collectors of Piaget timepieces and those who appreciate unique, artistic design.

Estimate: CHF50,000 to CHF80,000 (US$55,000 to US$88,000)

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H Moser & Cie and MB&F have collaborated to create a unique timepiece called the H. Moser x MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium for the Only Watch charity auction. The result: a giant stir in the horology world. The watch features a one-off movement designed exclusively for this occasion and a miniature panda DJ performing an artistic performance. The watch has a stainless steel case, an aquamarine fumé dial with a sunburst pattern, and an integrated stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp.

Who is it for?

Collectors who appreciate unique and creative timepieces that push the boundaries of traditional watchmaking.

Estimate: CHF300,000 to CHF400,000 (US$330,000 to US440,000)

The unique watch by Chopard is inspired by the first timepiece in the LUC collection presented in 1997, with an ice green-toned solid white gold guilloché dial and a 36.5mm case made of Chopard’s exclusive Lucent Steel. The watch features a chronometer-certified high-quality movement, the LUC Calibre 96.40-L, wound by a gold micro-rotor and equipped with the two barrels of Chopard twin technology. The successful bidder will be invited to visit Chopard Manufacture and the LUCEUM, Chopard’s private museum about time.

Who is it for?

Those interested in watchmaking experiences and vintage classics.

Estimate: CHF25,000 to CHF35,000 (US$27,500 to US$38,500)

See also: Rare Patek Philippe watch owned by China’s last emperor sells for more than HK$48 million in Phillips auction

This one-of-a-kind timepiece by De Bethune dubbed DW5 Seeking Perfect for Only Watch 23 features a hand-forged case made of Damascus iron and steel from iron ore harvested at L'Auberson, with patterns on its surface originating from different parts of the metal preparation forged together. The watch also features a blued meteorite dial and a spherical meteorite moon. The De Bethune team created a tourbillon movement for the watch that can be seen on the back. The successful bidder will be invited to visit the De Bethune Manufacture in Sainte-Croix and go for a forge tour with Denis Flageollet.

Who is it for?

Those interested in watchmaking experiences and futuristic timepieces.

Estimate: CHF220,000 to CHF270,000 (US$242,000 to US$297,000)

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Einstein Automata Only Watch 2023 features a dial depicting Albert Einstein in one of his most iconic and playful portraits, crafted with micro-sculpture and grisaille enamel techniques. The watch is powered by the LV 525 calibre movement, with an in-house automata mechanical movement featuring four animations and a power reserve indicator. The watch has a stainless steel case engraved with Only Watch 2023 and N°1/1 and comes with a hand-painted Louis Vuitton trunk.

Who is it for?

Lovers of eclectic, artistic watches supported by innovative technology.

Estimate: CHF340,000 to CHF440,000 (US$374,000 to US$484,000)

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