Cover Jean Arnault

Know how Louis Vuitton’s expert watchmakers showcase the art of horological mastery in its purest form with the latest Tambour from Jean Arnault himself

With help from movement specialist La Fabrique du Temps, Louis Vuitton has been quietly carving a place for itself in the realm of haute horlogerie. This year, under the watchful eyes of Jean Arnault, the 24-year-old watch director at Louis Vuitton, the French maison is ready to make a greater impact, starting with the flagship Tambour collection that has undergone a buzz-worthy makeover. 

Arnault explains: “Louis Vuitton launched the Tambour in 2002 with distinctive features such as a thick, round case, strong lugs and the ‘Louis Vuitton’ words around the edge. The watch has benefited enormously from the expertise of La Fabrique du Temps, which stepped up the design game on collections like Spin Time and Carpe Diem, and by contributing one-of-a-kind models, grand complications and automata. This expertise in haute horlogerie, led by a team that has grown and strengthened over the years, especially in artistic crafts, has been infused into the new Tambour.”

 

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Above Louis Vuitton Tambour Steel Grey W1ST10

The most discernible change is the drum-shaped case, which is slimmer and smaller at 40mm in diameter. Noticeably, it now comes with an integrated bracelet and the absence of lugs. “It is a first for Louis Vuitton and without a doubt, the most distinctive feature as well as the most complex,” Aranult notes at the Tambour launch in Paris. “We have paid particular attention to it, examining every detail and aiming for the best solutions in terms of size, comfort, finishing as well as its curve and tapering.”

Indeed, the slender and curvaceous bracelet links ensure a comfortable fit that could rival the softest leather strap. “Previously, the curve of the Tambour’s bracelet began 9/10th of the way from the case, with the entire thickness visible. The new version starts at 2/3rd, concealing a third of the thickness under the wrist. For the case, the last Tambour was 13mm thick; it’s now down to only 8mm in height,” says Arnault. A triple-blade folding clasp is a nice finishing touch to the overall pared-down design. 

The crown, in a shape that echoes the case, is fluted for a tactile sensation during winding. The watch face features 3D hour numerals and markers crafted in gold and diamond-polished for optimal shine. The new openworked, faceted hands complete the harmonious design.

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Above Louis Vuitton brings the craftsmanship and expertise necessary to create exceptional watches like the iconic Tambour

“The entire case construction has been revised, with a dramatic increase in attention to detail. For example, the caseback is curved to fit the wrist and features vertical satin-brushing on one side, and circular satin-finishing on the other. The ‘Louis Vuitton’ letters are polished and the bezel is bead-blasted.”

The new Tambour is also equipped with the first exclusive automatic movement designed for the French brand by movement specialist Le Cercle des Horlogers. In terms of performance, the LFT023 movement is COSC-certified, tested in accordance to the rigorous standards of Timelab and the Geneva Chronometry Observatory testing facility. Its superlative mechanics are matched with bespoke design elements including a micro-rotor stylised with the “LV” initials and an openworked barrel that recalls the French brand’s famous monogram flower.

“Caliber LFT023 is our benchmark movement: monochrome, ultramodern, and featuring a very high level of finishes including bead-blasting, circular graining on the plates, polished angles, and rose gold engravings. It is also the first movement in the world to be chronometer-certified by the Geneva Chronometry Observatory, which is part of the Timelab Foundation that issues the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.”

For Arnault, the new Tambour marks a fresh start for Louis Vuitton. “With this launch, we’re opening a new chapter in the maison’s watchmaking history, by creating a watch with strong horological credentials that are identifiable with the Louis Vuitton style. We’re giving up 80 per cent of what we had been producing. There will be no more quartz watches and no more externally sourced movements,” he asserts. 

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