Photo: courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen
Cover The façade of the IWC Manufakturzentrum in Schaffhausen (Photo: courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen)

Tatler spent a day at IWC’s cutting-edge manufacture, uncovering the intricacies behind the heritage, craftsmanship and advanced technology of the horological powerhouse

Nestled in the Swiss town of Schaffhausen, the International Watch Company (IWC) has been a beacon of craftsmanship and innovation since it was founded in 1868. More than just a watch manufacturer, IWC has been a vital source of employment for the town’s residents, providing jobs and sustaining livelihoods for generations. The company’s commitment to its workforce is mirrored in its dedication to excellence, producing timepieces that have gained an international reputation for their innovative design and technical ingenuity.

Schaffhausen’s 152 horological significance doesn’t end with IWC—it is also home to H Moser & Cie. Together, these two manufactures have positioned the town as a key player in the world of haute horlogerie.

As Tatler GMT’s editor, I was offered the opportunity to visit the IWC manufacture—and I was excited. What is so special about this watchmaker, the first American brand to launch its own manufacture in Switzerland? I was about to find out in person.

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First impressions of the IWC Manufakturzentrum

Tatler Asia
Photo: courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen
Above IWC has been a vital source of employment for Schaffhausen’s residents, providing jobs for generations (Photo: courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen)

American watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones founded IWC in 1868 with a mission of combining Swiss precision with American engineering innovation. Today, this ethos remains clear from the design of the current manufacture, built in 2018: a modern, glass façade with stark black frames contrasting against the flat, white roofs. Adding an extra personal touch to the IWC Manufakturzentrum was the fact that its architect was Christoph Grainger-Herr, the company’s current CEO, who is not only leading the brand’s strategic vision, but also bringing it to life in the structure of the building.

As I stepped through the glass doors, I experienced a symphony of horology. The quiet hum of focused work, the occasional click of a gear being set into place, and the faint aroma of oiled metal filled the air as master artisans, engineers and watchmakers worked away.

Walking through the nine-metre-high lobby, we headed first to the movement-component production workshop. Here, approximately 1,500 different components for various calibres are produced, from bottom plates and bridges to small elements such as switching levers and springs.

Tatler Asia
Photo: courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen
Above The lobby of the IWC Manufacture (Photo: courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen)

I marvelled at the precision and complexity of it all; some parts were so minuscule they could barely be seen with the naked eye. For example, the bottom plate for the calibre 52 needs about 400 geometric features; any deviation in size or shape— even of a few thousandths of a millimetre—can prevent the components from fitting together and cause the watch to malfunction. This level of precision can only be achieved through automated processes and the most advanced computer-controlled turning and milling centres.

After the components are produced, they are sent to the electroplating shop for surface finishing. This process not only protects the components against corrosion but also enhances their visual appeal. Nickel and rhodium coatings prevent brass components from tarnishing and gives them a silvery-white appearance. The production of engraved components, like the barrel bridge, involves an even more intricate process. After being gold-plated and coated, the components are rhodium- plated in an electroplating bath. The remaining coating is then washed off, leaving the engraving gleaming gold.

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Seamless processes

Tatler Asia
Photo: courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen
Above Multiple specialists, each with specific expertise, are assigned to various assembly sub-processes (Photo: courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen)

From here, the transition to movement assembly is seamless. Unlike the largely automated production of movement components, the assembly of a movement requires careful, manual manipulation, as piecing together the complex mechanism is beyond the capabilities of any machine.

Multiple specialists, each with specific expertise, are assigned to various assembly sub-processes. The case production department is housed in the Manufakturzentrum’s basement. This is where the watch cases, made from a variety of materials including stainless steel, titanium, platinum, red gold, white gold and the innovative Ceratanium, are made. Ceratanium is a material developed by IWC that combines the advantages of both titanium and ceramic: it’s as light and unbreakable as the former, yet as hard and scratch-resistant as the latter. In addition, it has the unique ability to take on a dark black hue during the manufacturing process, lending timepieces a unique, striking aesthetic.

The machining process for these cases is customised using computer-controlled turning and milling centres, and then each case undergoes careful manual inspection. The specialists producing the cases are skilled in a variety of complex and demanding machining methods such as diamond turning, the method primarily used for red-gold and bronze cases, resulting in a unique, gleaming surface finish. I also witnessed a craftsman polishing an IWC Portugieser case, his fingers moving with deft precision and a grace that was almost artistic; a testament to the century- old traditions of IWC and a fitting realisation of Jones’s vision. 

Watch assembly workshop

Tatler Asia
Photo: courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen
Above Christoph Grainger-Herr, the CEO of the watchmaker and the architect of the manufacture (Photo: courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen)

During my visit, I was also given the opportunity to participate in a watch assembly workshop. Despite my knowledge of timepieces, I found myself hilariously frazzled, struggling to keep a steady hand while piecing together the intricate components of the watch. I left the workshop mopping sweat from my brow, and with an even more profound respect for the skilled watchmakers who perform this delicate ballet of assembly every day.

The tour concluded in the museum, a veritable treasure trove of horological history. From the very first Jones calibre to the famed Mark XI used by the British Royal Air Force, and from the original Big Pilot to the Ingenieur SL—legendary watchmaker Gerald Genta’s contribution to the brand—and the latest Portugieser and Portofino models, the timepieces are evidence of IWC’s enduring legacy.

As I stood there, immersed in the past, present and future of IWC, I couldn’t help but feel acute admiration for the dedication, craftsmanship and passion that have sustained this horological powerhouse for over a century. The experience was an important reminder that watchmakers are not just manufacturing timepieces; they are custodians of an art form, a tradition and a legacy.

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