Cover The final visual and functional check of an Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 (Photo: Rolex)

In its quest for excellence, Rolex has maintained the vision of its founder Hans Wilsdorf through the years

The wristwatch may be ubiquitous today, but it was not a common sight back in the early 20th century. Hans Wilsdorf precipitated a paradigm shift with Rolex by overcoming three fundamental challenges that wristwatches faced, and in so doing made them viable timekeeping instruments that replaced pocket watches as the timepiece of choice. His vision of producing the best wristwatches possible—and continually improving on them—is one that the brand maintains even today.

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1908 Perpetual
Above The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 (Photo: Rolex)

Setting Milestones

The first challenge concerned precision and Rolex triumphed in 1914 with a wristwatch that was awarded a “Class A” precision certificate by England’s Kew Observatory, then the highest authority for chronometric precision. This was followed in 1926 with the invention of the Oyster case with its patented system of a screw‑down bezel, caseback and winding crown, which met the challenge of waterproofing. Finally, the year 1931 saw Rolex tackle the challenge of self‑winding with its self‑winding mechanism with a free rotor called “Perpetual”—the culmination of a series of patented ideas that would become the standard adopted by the entire watchmaking industry.

Of course, these were but three milestones in Rolex’s history; other breakthroughs abound. When American test pilot Chuck Yeager broke the sound barrier in 1947, he had a Rolex Oyster on his wrist. Similarly, the first recorded successful ascent of Mount Everest in 1953 had Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay both equipped by Rolex. More recently in 1960, Rolex’s experimental Oyster, the Deep Sea Special was the first timepiece to reach the bottom of the Mariana Trench, which marks the deepest point on Earth. This was paralleled in 2012, when an experimental Rolex Deepsea Challenge watch was attached to the submersible that James Cameron used to descend to the same depths and later inspired the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge that was launched in 2022.

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Above The waterproofness of each finished watch is tested in a hyperbaric tank (Photo: Rolex)

Staunch Independence

Watchmaking excellence at Rolex’s level is never the result of mere luck or coincidence. Instead, each factor that contributes to it is carefully accounted for—and controlled. Autonomy is especially vital. In Rolex’s case, this begins with the brand’s independence as an entity, which not just affords the company the freedom to take the long view on things, but also allows it to focus on going its own way in expressing its vision of watchmaking.

Rolex’s independence is bolstered by its sheer technical capabilities, thanks to its completely vertically integrated manufacture. The brand currently maintains four production sites, all located in Switzerland. At its superlative Bienne site, movement components, from 200 to almost 400 for the most complex calibres, are manufactured with extreme precision. In Chêne‑Bourg, traditional métiers d’art such as gem‑setting and enamelling are practised alongside modern techniques such as the production of Cerachrom components.

Meanwhile, the facilities at Plan‑les‑Ouates are focused on raw superlative materials such as Rolex’s proprietary Everose gold, which are smelted in‑house in the brand’s own foundry. These materials are variously stamped, cut, drilled and machined to create components such as middle cases and bracelet links, which are then finished. Finally, the Acacias site is responsible for watch assembly. It is also here that complete watches undergo Rolex’s suite of internal tests to qualify for the brand’s Superlative Chronometer certification, which guarantees their precision and reliability. A fifth site in Bulle is currently being developed.

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Above A timepiece in the testing stage during Rolex’s research and development process (Photo: Rolex)

Beyond its production capabilities, Rolex is committed to bettering every aspect of its watches. For this, it relies on its research and development division, which has dozens of members grouped into four areas: innovation; materials and technologies; the watch (case and bracelet); and the movement. This multidisciplinary team conducts fundamental research across these four categories to constantly improve Rolex’s watchmaking and, consequently, its timepieces. From physicists to microtechnology engineers and statisticians, the diversity of the division gives it myriad perspectives from which new ideas can be developed and subsequently integrated.

Superlative Qualities

Rolex watches, from the dressiest references to the most rugged and technical ones, share eight fundamental qualities. Three of them—precision, waterproofness and autonomy—were, as described previously, major advancements in wristwatches. Beyond these, the brand strives for robustness, simplicity, craftsmanship, comfort and durability. Taken together, these traits make for a well‑rounded timepiece as well as reveal Rolex’s superlative approach, which explains why its watches are a category unto themselves.

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The Oyster Perpetual DeepseaChallenge, made of RLX titanium
Above The Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge, made of RLX titanium (Photo: Rolex)

Complementing this approach is Superlative Control, Rolex’s in‑house unit at its Acacias facility that is responsible for testing all watches before they leave the manufacture. Every timepiece must pass the laboratory’s gruelling battery of tests to be certified a Superlative Chronometer, after their movements have first passed the tests administered by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute to be recognised as chronometers. This proprietary standard is significantly more stringent than the wider industry’s norms and speaks to a guaranteed level of performance that is backed by a five‑year international warranty.

Consistent Excellence

Are there some Rolex watches that embody the brand’s values more strongly than others? The answer is a resounding no, and it is also this level of consistency across Rolex’s timepieces that sets it apart from its contemporaries. Every single Rolex watch is simply held to the same standards, and each is as good an example of Rolex’s watchmaking as another. Given the brand’s commitment to continually improve on its watches, however, one can certainly argue that the latest versions of every model are the best ones yet. It is exactly how Wilsdorf envisioned the brand, over a century ago.

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