Cover Grisaille enamel created by expert artisans at Cartier Maison des Métiers d’Art

At the Cartier Maison des Métiers d’Art, ancient arts and crafts are preserved and perfected

In 2014, a charming 17th century farmhouse in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Swiss watchmaking cradle in the Jura mountains, was converted by Cartier into its métiers d’art workshop. Located right next to the Cartier Manufacture, the 30,000 square metre birthplace of Tank and Santos, Maison des Métiers d’Art concentrates solely on preserving and promoting ancestral techniques through the lens of watchmaking. Many of these ancient crafts would have been at risk of being lost forever without this atelier as there was hardly any written documentation about them.

Here, one will discover a conducive environment where about 200 craftsmen are given the freedom to elevate their work, a place where heritage is also enriched with modern ideas and tools. Here, an array of human and technical heritage is protected and cultivated so that it can be enjoyed for generations to come.

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Cartier Maison des Métiers d’Art
Above Cartier Maison des Métiers d’Art in La Chaux-de-Fonds

Maison des Métiers d’Art focuses on three families of expertise in the arts of metal, fire, and composition. They all involve a high level of skill, precision, and attention to detail, not unlike the development and realisation of a watch movement.

Three ancient techniques can be found under metal, among them is gold bead granulation where beads of different sizes are used to fashion a motif on the dial. These beads have to be delicately soldered onto the dial, a process made particularly challenging because heat is involved and risks deformation.

Then there are enamel granulation, where beads are formed from enamel, and filigree, an intricate precious metal thread work invented by the Sumerians in 3000 B.C.

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Cartier d'Art with a dial motif created using gold bead granulation
Above Cartier d'Art with a dial motif created using gold bead granulation

Under fire is a series of enamel techniques from cloissoné and champlevé to the highly complex grisaille enamel that produces amazing portraiture. This technique involves firing up a dial coated in black enamel before the enameled paints on it with “Limoges white” enamel, creating nuances of white and grey tones to realise stunning images like the tiger.

Flamed gold is the newest addition to Maison des Métiers d’Art. Inspired by the bluing of hands in a flame, it requires the heating of a gold plate at precise temperatures to forge a palette of colours—a slight error in temperature or length of time in the heat means it’s back to square one.

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Cartier d'Art with a dial motif created with grisaille enamel
Above Cartier d'Art with a dial motif created with grisaille enamel
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Ronde Louis Cartier with a dial motif created with flamed gold
Above Ronde Louis Cartier with a dial motif created with flamed gold

Then there is composition, dominated mainly by marquetry. Originally a decorative woodworking technique that involves inlaying small pieces of wood to form intricate patterns, the technique has been advanced such that it now includes straw and gold.

In fact, Cartier undertook the challenge of floral marquetry, using rose petals and placing them on a wood board to fabricate an exquisite image of a colourful parrot on the dial of a Ballon de Cartier.

Under this category is also stone mosaic, an ancient technique of assembling tiles once employed for floors and walls that has now found its way onto the dials of Cartier watches.

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Montre Cartier d'Art watch with a parrot dial created using floral marquetry
Above Montre Cartier d'Art watch with a parrot dial created using floral marquetry

These are veritable works of art that fit right on the wrist. The watch transcends its utilitarian purpose and becomes a captivating artistic expression showcasing exquisite craftsmanship that enhances both its allure and value. For the artists, the watch serves as a canvas that challenges their aesthetic verve. It is a wonderful side of luxury watchmaking, and Cartier brings this to light with a flair like no other.

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Stone mosaic
Above Using stone mosaic to construct an equestrian motif

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