Jewels & Time 2020: Vacheron Constantin Dazzles With its First Automatic Tourbillon For Ladies
While fully acknowledging the mechanical marvel that is at the centre of this timepiece, we’d like to turn the spotlight towards its superlative gem-setting that is honestly quite breathtaking. Clearly made for ladies, Vacheron Constantin’s new 39mm Traditionnelle Tourbillon is available in two diamond-set versions—a fully gem-set version in white gold, and a more modestly embellished version in 5N pink gold.
The former, aptly named Traditionnelle Tourbillon Jewellery, is a stunner to look at, with its dial completely blinged out in a mix of 43 baguette-cut and 46 round-cut diamonds laid out in concentric circles, and another 208 round-cut sparklers rimming its case, lugs, extending to the sides. The latter, on the other hand, has a dial of mother-of-pearl, framed by a similarly diamond-studded lugs and case.
Both have a stepped case, which elevates the gem-setting both aesthetically speaking and physically. The diamonds on the front may be beautiful, but it’s the side view of the case that surprises and captivates, with its neatly lined-up rows of pave-set gems. The crown, in both models, is set with a single diamond, while a further 46 diamonds encircle the tourbillon carriage, and the folding clasp is studded with another 36 diamonds.
This is the first time Vacheron Constantin has produced a self-winding tourbillon for ladies. At the heart of the watch is the in-house calibre 2160, which has an 80-hour power reserve and was unveiled in 2018 along with the very first Traditionnelle Tourbillon. At just 5.65mm, the movement is impressively thin, which has resulted in a case thickness of just 11.22mm—perfectly proportioned for the feminine wrist.
The exposed tourbillon mechanism, which has a carriage shaped like the Maltese cross, adds to the elegance of this timepiece. It operates at a low 2.5 Hertz frequency, enabling the wearer to admire the steady beating of the mechanism.
We dare say the new diamond-set Traditionnelle Tourbillon is a spectacular combination of looks and substance in a glorious timepiece—and that applies to both versions of it. As much as jewellery watches are designed to be showy, this one makes an impression with a dose of refined classical elegance that’s not often seen.
(Related: Editor's Note: High Watchmaking is Not Dead in 2020)