5 Emerging Menswear Brands To Know In 2019
With new designers being discovered more often thanks to initiatives like LVMH Prize and CFDA, the menswear fashion landscape is being filled with new faces and exciting ideas. Fashion giants might have years of experience under their belts, but these five young brands have the edge and freshness that will carry you through this summer like a breeze
1/5 Ludovic De Saint Sernin
Glamorous, sensual and very French—these are, perhaps, the best words to describe Ludovic De Saint Sernin. ESAA Duperré graduate and an ex-member of the Balmain design team, De Saint Sernin launched his brand in 2017 and was selected as a finalist of the LVMH Prize in the same year.
Two of his collections were shown during Paris Men’s Fashion Week, and were reminiscent of early Yves Saint Laurent and Paco Rabanne looks. Signature cinched waist tailoring, flowy satin suits along with bold body chains and Swarovski-encrusted underwear (because nothing says luxury quite like a bedazzled speedo) redefined masculinity on the Fall/Winter 2019 runway.
Pieces like cropped-fit jackets and laced-up pants create a clean and unconventional silhouette that can be surprisingly wearable, especially when coupled with an oversized T-shirt or your favourite tank top. At the same time, the designer’s masterful creations with leather and silk will give you just the right amount of bling.
Available at matchesfashion.com
2/5 Sies Marjan
Sander Lak of Sies Marjan has been a fashion darling since 2016, and the designer’s men’s line had always seemed like a mere addition to his thriving womenswear collection. However, that quickly changed once the industry and the public started appreciating the subversiveness and boldness of Lak’s aesthetic.
The designer’s choice of intense colours and unusual fabrics creates an intellectual vibe, which normally can't be said of scarlet satin creations. Sies Marjan’s collections are filled with lyricism that can be attributed to the abundance of colourful nightgown-like outfits. Some of the pieces have a remarkable crinkled texture, making the shirts look like gold leaf-coated stucco found on the ceilings of Versailles—an effect that's challenging to achieve with fabrics other than silk or satin.
Our favourite picks from the brand include Blaine Faux Fur coat in lilac, the reflective trousers that burst into colours when introduced to flash light and all of the satin shirts (yes, all of them).
Find out more at siesmarjan.com
3/5 1017 ALYX 9SM
American Horror Story: Apocalypse, but make it fashion. California’s very own Matthew Williams has brought his dystopian fantasies to life with 1017 ALYX 9SM—a brand where urban meets elegance. 1017 ALYX 9SM is a rebrand of Alyx, whose launch was announced right before SS19 Paris Fashion Week.
Alyx’s true identity lies in innovation and precision: advanced hi-tech fabrics combined with lab-like production process make up fully realised garments that are functional and make a strong statement without being overbearing. Whether it’s a tailored mackintosh that appears as a new take on clerical attire or patterned denim slashed thigh to ankle, wearability and production value are the words that come to mind. The brand’s way of using cutting-edge technologies in garment creation from industries not always related to textiles leaves us wanting more.
We particularly enjoyed seeing another brand that's not afraid of putting a man in heels or using animal print. Alyx’s accessories certainly captured our attention, especially the Brie Bag; handbags alike are rarely seen on men off the runways, but wearing it with the Williams Classic Coat looks natural and masculine.
Find out more at alyxstudio.com
(Related: 14 Must-Have Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear Accessories)
A-Cold-Wall was established by Samuel Ross in 2015. The brand’s identity was inspired by the mundane routine of London’s working class and it explores the role of youth in modern fashion. It's apparent that Ross was inspired greatly by his mentor, Virgil Abloh, especially in shapes and silhouettes. However, it is the use of materials that make A-Cold-Wall as unique and refreshing as it is.
Even though Ross never had a problem catering towards the younger demographic of college students, his popularity amongst them increased even more after the launch of Nike x A-Cold-Wall. The collaboration featured slate grey nylon jackets that were stiff in texture, but soften when exposed to humidity or heat.
Our other favourites from the collaboration include the Vomero5+ sneaker in onyx that resembled a classical old-school sports trainer with an unexpected, exaggerated heel piece.
Find out more at a-cold-wall.com
(Related: Virgil Abloh’s Basel Installation With Vitra Is A Look Into The Future Of Furniture Design)
5/5 Matthew Adams Dolan
Parsons School of Design graduate and LVMH Prize 2018 finalist, Matthew Adams Dolan creates clothes that pay homage to American sportswear and pop culture of the '90s. Subcultural phenomena such as goths and ravers also acted as inspiration for the American designer’s latest collection.
The brand explores unconventional usage of denim as seen in cinched, structured blazers and mini shorts, which was often combined in splashes of iconic pinks and yellows from the '80s and '90s. His spring/summer 2020 collection harked back to the good ol' days when Seinfeld aired on television, and when Modern Talking by Brother Louie was playing nonstop on the radio.
Our top picks from the brand are the oversized Oxford shirt with dramatic cuffs and collars and mohair oversized cardigans in quintessential '90s colours—fuchsia and purple.
Available at ssense.com
This article first appeared on hk.asiatatler.com.
(Related: Why This Japanese Fashion Label Is The Winner Of The 2018 LVMH Prize)