Milan Fashion Week Men's Autumn/Winter 2020: The Highlights and Trends to Know
Fendi showcased a new interpretation of masculine elegance with wardrobe essentials reinvented by Silvia Venturini Fendi, photo-chromatic “transforming garments” produced in a new collaboration with Anrealage. The line included hybrid pieces with panels that zipped and unzipped to create jackets or coats and trousers that sometimes looked like skirts.
Dsquared2's Canadian twins Dean and Dann Catten kicked off Milan men's fashion week on Friday with their label celebrating its 25th anniversary with a return to its rugged leather and denim DNA and an appearance by disco divas Sister Sledge. The women wore mini-shorts or ultra-short corseted dresses, with pumps and stockings rising to the knee. Others wore oversize knitwear along with fur and leather.
Gucci closed out the men's Fashion Week in Milan with a runway show spotlighting a man that asks questions about male identity in a patriarchal society. It was also the first time Gucci had their male-only show since 2016 reinforcing Alessandro Michele's exploration of masculinity through the pieces. “I think menswear is even more experimental and stranger (than women’s) because men are allowed less,” said Alessandro.
(Related: Masks Off: The Genius Behind Gucci's Fall/Winter Collection)
Giorgio Armani also presented classic silhouettes with pinstripe, check, and in some cases, velvet suits, in slate grey, midnight blue, and even green. There were also long functional overcoats with multiple pockets, which were often made of contrasting materials. The fashion house also unveiled several futuristic outdoor-wear pieces, many of them snowsuits or outfits that would be equally at home on ski slopes as they would be in more urban settings, which were predominantly in wool and cashmere.
Dolce & Gabbana
In a 180-degree about-turn, Dolce & Gabbana broke with the tone set by previous collections and returned to its roots with pieces suggestive of traditional workwear.
In looks inspired by elegance, tailoring and sportswear, Emporio Armani spotlighted recycled fabrics in its autumn/winter 2020 collection, reflecting the brand's commitment to sustainable fashion. On the catwalks, there were recycled fabrics, collections that vacillated between elegance and sportswear, and a comeback for traditional handmade materials.
(Related: Emporio Armani Pays It Forward)
Salvatore Ferragamo's menswear explored the free and fluid elements of masculinity—softening the male archetypes by altering structured pieces like military jackets and peacoats. The brand exemplified how men do not need to conform to the stereotypes of dominance and fashion is a mechanism to defy the characterism of the role as a man.
(Related: Entrepreneur Neelofa Shares Her Best Fashion Moments At The Salvatore Ferragamo Show In Milan)
Models strode a somberly lit runway for MSGM, which offered a mix of styles and textures with voluminous and vibrantly coloured quilted coats worn over dark sober-looking suits.
Prada presented an eclectic mix of inspirations with silhouettes that were by turns, traditional, futuristic, and sportswear. A number of minimalist outdoor-wear pieces, which played on volumes, were particularly well-received.
(Related: Why Prada's First Collaboration With Adidas Is A Big Deal)