Meet The Women Behind The World's Best Jewellery Brands
Caroline Scheufele , artistic director and co-president of Chopard
To say Caroline Scheufele is a busy woman would be an understatement. She’s not only made clients rethink what luxury means with Chopard’s commitment to use 100 per cent ethical gold, but her designs have sparked trends—if you’ve recently been inspired by bejewelled creations from the red carpet, then Scheufele is the woman you have to thank.
“True luxury comes only when you know the handprint of your supply chain,” says Scheufele. “It’s not an easy journey, but it’s the right one.” Her refined yet low maintenance style is what has made her one of Chopard’s best advertisements, epitomising the modern yet timeless look that the brand has come to encompass.
This year’s Red Carpet collection pieces beautifully showcase this ability to influence, with the artistic director choosing love as her design inspiration.
Lucia Silvestri, creative director of Bvlgari
As the creative director of Italian jewellery house Bvlgari, Lucia Silvestri has earned her position among the world’s most notable jewellers.
She was only 18 years old when she filled in for a woman who worked in Bvlgari’s gemology department while she was on maternity leave. “I was fortunate enough to have Paolo Bvlgari, one of the grandsons of the founder of the maison, introduce me to the world of gemstones. When I saw all the gemstones together, I fell in love with this world instantly.” Her tenure at Bvlgari has now spanned more than 35 years, and she has played a pivotal role in making the maison a red carpet favourite.
This year’s Academy Awards saw actors Charlize Theron, Chadwick Boseman and Gemma Chan wearing the brand’s iconic Serpenti and B.zero1 creations, and 2019’s Cinemagia high jewellery collection is Silvestri’s latest nod to the silver screen.
Jacqueline Karachi, director of Cartier's High Jewellery Creation Studio
In possibly its most daring undertaking yet, Cartier has unveiled its Magnitude high jewellery collection. An explosion of colour and light, its use of lapis lazuli, rock crystal and matrix opal is more old school than other lines in recent years.
The creative mind behind this audacious endeavour, Jacqueline Karachi is a veteran of the brand, having worked for Cartier for more than 30 years. “It’s about catching colours in white light, capturing the movement of a floating dandelion, achieving the sinuous movement of an animal, and even mimicking grand buildings in terms of construction and architecture,” she has previously told Asia Tatler about her exquisite creations.
It therefore comes as no surprise that Karachi is once again sending shockwaves through the jewellery scene, and we’re sure there’s more to come.
(Related: The Clash De Cartier Collection Is Your New Everyday Jewellery)
Claire Choisne, creative director of Boucheron
Few know their way around precious metals and gemstones like Boucheron’s Clarie Choisne. It is she to whom the rich and famous flock, and for good reason. “Technique and detail are essential to creating exceptional jewellery,” she tells Tatler Asia. “I can’t imagine designing something that’s too easy. The goal should always be to create something that looks as though it’s easy to make, but in reality it is incredibly difficult.”
Inspired by Paris, Boucheron’s latest collection, Paris, vu du 26, celebrates the City of Love’s architecture and culture. “This year is important because we are paying tribute to our roots,” she says. Retaining Boucheron’s history while remaining innovative, however, isn’t always easy. “I don’t want to copy the past,” says Choisne. “I stay true to our identity but always push forward.” Which is why she’s a perfect fit for Boucheron. “We’re not an old maison that is trying to reinvent ourselves and do something new. We’ve always been modern.”
(Related: Boucheron Returns To Place Vendôme With A New Collection)
Victoire De Castellane, creative director of Dior Joaillerie
Victoire De Castellane’s outrageously oversized and extravagant pieces are instantly recognisable for their breathtaking beauty. De Castellane ripped up the rule book long ago and injects Dior Joaillerie’s jewellery with an avant garde madness that’s captivating.
“They topple over one another and wedge together to create volume,” she says of the gems in her latest high jewellery collection, Gem Dior, which celebrates Dior’s jewellery department’s 20th anniversary, where de Castellane herself has worked since 1999. “It’s as if I’ve put all my collections from the past 20 years into a shaker and what popped out were freeze frames,” she says. “What’s left is material and colour.”
Gem Dior is, without doubt, yet another example of the creative’s ability to bring a modern outlook to a world steeped in tradition.
(Related: Dior Joaillerie Celebrates 20th Anniversary With A Special Gem Dior Collection)