Mac Cosmetics' Director of Global Makeup Artistry Lyne Desnoyers Reveal The Best Ways To Wear This Season's Runway Beauty Trends
With its instantly recognisable monochromatic stores stocked with lipsticks and eyeshadow pots in every shade, Mac Cosmetics has established itself as the go-to colour authority since its launch, leading at the forefront of beauty trends on the runway.
Originally created by makeup artist Frank Toskan and salon owner Frank Angelo for makeup artists, the New York-based beauty brand is not only one of the first cosmetic labels that made professional makeup available to consumers, but also the first to employ professional makeup artists at its counters.
Mac Cosmetics global makeup artistry director Lyne Desnoyers herself had cut her teeth working part-time in a department store for the brand, and credits it as her key influence for stepping into the world of makeup artistry.
“I started working at Mac while I was still studying at university. Fashion and beauty were an interest of mine, but I was certainly not thinking about making a career out of it,” she shared.
“It is only when I decided to take a break after my master’s degree that I started to consider this as a potential future career. I enjoyed the interaction with my team, the consumers and the creative vibe of Mac—I had found a “home” that was offering me so many learning opportunities that I never left.”
Having spent over 24 years at the beauty brand, Lyne’s star-studded clientele includes Zhang Ziyi, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dita Von Teese and more, and her more recent works were presented at New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2020. So who better to clue us in on the latest beauty trends and how to wear them in 2020 than the makeup maestro herself?
What are your thoughts on being part of New York Fashion Week 2020?
Lyne Desnoyers (LD) It is incredibly inspiring to be able to watch trends come to life during fashion week. In the past couple of seasons, we have seen a lot of beautiful classics being reinvented: the red lip, the radiant skin, the black eyeliner, and more. Each time, a small tweak changes the entire mood of these iconic details and make it feel new again.
What is it like backstage at fashion week? How long does it take to create a look?
LD The teams involved in the creation of the looks typically meet about 48 hours before the show. It might surprise some for this to happen so close to the show, but it is really great timing as this is usually when the casting and the editing of the collection are done—two important elements that inspire both the beauty and hair looks.
On the day of the show, the image comes together to tell the vision of the designers. It is always a very satisfying moment especially because we usually have only three hours to prepare all models!
What is the beauty trend forecast for spring/summer 2020?
LD I love how this season explored the use of colour in various ways: from an unconventional statement eye to a luminous blush to a monochromatic statement, colour is used to convey self-expression and emotion.
Dark strokes are also a prominent trend—the colour black seen on eyes has either a spontaneous feel to it or a lot of precision. The texture and placement are very important and completely determine the mood of the makeup. There has been a return of a darker lip as well—from a rich bordeaux tone to a caviar one—that feels romantic and delicate. A precise application is key.
Makeup that looks natural is always very honed: every detail is important to create radiance and convey a sense of quiet luxury. Skin is kept matte this season, and shades of tan, honey and soft pink are pushed into the skin to create freshness on eyes, lips and cheeks.
(Related: The Best Eye Creams and Serums for 2020, According to Singapore's Beauty Aficionados)
How can women adapt these trends for the office?
LD It is quite easy to adapt trends to everyday life by simply taking some new elements and incorporating them into our normal routine. For example, adding a pop of colour on the lids instead of a pale colour will create a surprising effect and bring just as much luminosity to the eye makeup. It is nice to use trends as inspiration to try new textures and placements, but it is not an exercise to completely transform our habits.
Pantone’s Color of the Year for 2020 is Classic Blue. What are your tips for Asian women who want to try out incorporate the colour into their look?
LD Blue eyeshadow is an absolute classic for me but somehow, we tend to associate it with extreme looks! Navy, sapphire and midnight blue are all very wearable tones and just as indispensable for some as black or brown.
When it comes to wearing brighter blues, I find that turquoises, muted blue and pale mauves look beautiful as an eyeliner or a soft wash. The Pantone Classic Blue is a deep blue, in the navy family that has a grey undertone, so it would look great as an accent or incorporated in a smokey eye.
Your all-time favourite beauty product?
LD Both personally and professionally, these products are my go-to for their versatility and incredible performance:
• Strobe Cream: Used on its own or mixed into foundation, this product is an absolute must for all lovers of instant radiance out there.
• Retro Matte Liquid Lip Colour: Its staying power is nothing short of magical.
• Pro Longwear Paint Pot: Another hard-working product, it is the cream eyeshadow that does it all and stays on too. The colour Groundwork has to be one of the most loved and used shade during fashion season and beyond!
Your best beauty trick?
LD Prep + Prime Skin Refined Zone minimizes pores, controls oil and is a great mattifying primer. What a lot of makeup artists love to do is to also use it to finish the makeup instead of using powder. The gel-like emulsion is best dabbed onto the skin with either a brush or a sponge and gives instant results without moving the makeup.
What are your tips for long-lasting makeup in Singapore’s humid weather?
LD When dealing with humidity and heat, long-wearing products are something all makeup wearers look for. Some of my favourites include Pro Longwear Paint Pot, Pro Longwear Concealer and Liquid Last Eyeliner.
I also like the technique of layering textures instead of thickening the application of products. This is especially true with foundation, where for example, I could start with a primer, apply a cushion foundation, then work on highlighting and corrections with a liquid foundation and finish off with a concealer if needed. I have found that applying thin layers of products tends to give great, long-lasting results—same for eye makeup!