5 Things We Loved About Louis Vuitton’s Futuristic Cruise 2022 Show
Nicolas Ghesquière took Louis Vuitton’s cruise 2022 show to Cergy-Pontoise in France, staging the runway show at Israeli artist Dani Karavan’s monumentally magnificent Axe Majeur that played perfectly into the designer’s exploration of transportation, portals to other worlds and new beginnings. Here’s five things that we loved about the collection.
1/5 Nicolas Ghesquière presented his most “proud, positive” collection yet
For cruise 2022, Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière wanted to create a vision of joy and optimism, after almost a year and a half after the Covid-19 pandemic swept across the world. With travel restrictions still in place in France and most parts of the globe, he took this vision to Cergy-Pontoise, just outside of Paris, where he showcased a vibrant, punchy collection that referenced fashion across time. Playing with the idea of imaginary portals and transcendental transport, and his pet theme of science fiction at front and centre, the cruise 2022 collection boasted bold silhouettes, bright colours and, above all, truly fun pieces that brought a sense of jubilation to the collection.
2/5 It was held at the Axe Majeur in Cergy-Pontoise, France
The choice of location for Louis Vuitton’s cruise 2022 show could not have been more brilliant. The Axe Majeur, a monumental art installation by the late Israeli artist Dani Karavan, who was renowned for his humanist and environmental artwork, is a “utopian” 3.2km installation that encompasses 12 stations, starting from the “Ile Astronomique” to “Le Douze Colonnes”—the 12 sculptural columns seen in the cruise 2022 presentation—and “Le Jardin des Droits de l’Homme,” culminating in “La Passerelle”. The brilliant red archways provided a striking backdrop to Ghesquière’s collection and reinforced his idea of transporting his audience to another world even more.
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3/5 Ghesquière looked to the stars for inspiration
Science fiction is something that has always captured Nicolas Ghesquière’s imagination—and this season saw his take on a fantastical space frontier that found itself given form as colourful, eye-catching prints on shift dresses, voluminous versions and A-line coats. Anachronistic elements such as a “Motel Moon” that drew on vintage Americana, figures playing basketball, or volleyball, and even some with surfboards, have been layered and collaged with planetary and lunar images. “I don’t know why, but it was always an obsession to reflect on futurism, space conquest, and what we might call ‘the space colony’. The titans of the world are investing in it, and what looked unreal in the past is now bringing us closer to space,” he told British Vogue in a post-show interview. “And I have to say, I think it’s great. It’s really progressive for all of us. Those prints in a light and fun way are about the domestication of our future conquests of those planets.” We love a good space-time warp reference.
4/5 The punchy accessories brought a renewed sense of fun
If there’s one thing that you can count on Louis Vuitton to excel at, it’s their bags, and this season gave us plenty to gawk at. From new additions to their Monogram Since 1854 Collection to multicoloured versions of their signature bags—either carried in hand or slung nonchalantly on the shoulder—we could not stop looking at all the bag candy that came down the runway. Something new for the season: oversized chain straps have taken over leather ones, or even crossbody straps, and now come in a plethora of pop art-worthy colours.
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5/5 Ghesquière saluted the pomp and glamour of military dress
Another Ghesquière favourite, military details and influences could be seen on the cruise 2022 runway. Think: structured waistcoats and doublets with epaulette detailing on the shoulders, trompe l’oeil sashes across jackets and smart-looking, almost outlandishly large cuffs fastened with a shiny gold button. But there’s something joyous that comes with the glamour of these military-esque references, too, Ghesquière says. “I always loved the idea of a community enjoying success; a marching band; people dressing for celebration,” he told British Vogue. And with more people getting vaccinated and the world easing into a tentatively positive new normal, maybe celebration is something that is on all of our horizons.
Watch the Louis Vuitton cruise 2022 runway show here.