Glimpse into the beloved French Maison’s reinvention of the powerful Panthère de Cartier
Unequivocally bold with a touch of mystique, the Panthère de Cartier has become one of the highly captivating figures in Haute Joaillerie. With its notable impact and allure, the prized icon carries a compelling history—one that cannot be told without the mention of one charismatic and creative muse by the name of Jeanne Toussaint.
Enthralled by Paris’ unequalled art and fashion scene like many ingenues in the early 1900s, Toussaint possessed an outstanding style and wit that landed her in social circles with the likes of Louis Cartier, who eventually sought her fine taste and vision to expand his company’s line of jewels and accessories. From the panther fur coat she famously donned, to her foremost creations for the French luxury house, Touissant’s profound affection for the creature and her equally fierce personality earned her the nickname “La Panthére” from Louis himself. As it became her personal signature, the Panthère also organically rose as one of the most recognisable and collectable emblems in Cartier’s stellar oeuvre.
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Now, we come to meet the Panthère’s latest reinvention, equally an ode to today’s powerful women just as its origins have been. Hugging the body as closely as possible, the pieces in the contemporary collection are characterised by their supple sculptural design, discernible details and a sinuous motif that mirrors the magnetism of the feline animal. Flexibility and movement naturally emerge as eminent elements. Truly a striking set made to elevate modish, gala ensembles, the Panthère de Cartier exists for the most glamourous coteries—those who fancy making a statement when they walk into a room.
Undeniably, the focal point in each magnificent piece is where the heads of the articulated panthers nearly connect, their emerald or tsavorite garnet eyes as luminous touchstones. Made of sleek yellow gold, the first iteration of the Panthère necklace, bracelet and ring come marked with black octagonal lacquer spots along the length of the curved design. In contrast, the second style in white gold is paved with sparkling diamonds and onyx stones, each meticulously encircled with small metal grains to secure it. Known as the technique of “fur” setting at Cartier, the Maison’s masterful artisans skilfully cut around the onyx to reflect the impression of a silky coat.
