A close-up view of the new Portugieser perpetual calendar in platinum (Photo: IWC Schaffhausen)
IWC Schaffhausen's iconic perpetual calendar by Kurt Klaus finds a glittery new expression in a platinum Portugieser, the go-to IWC model for classical watches
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Kurt Klaus (Photo: IWC Scahffhausen)
Above Kurt Klaus (Photo: Courtesy of IWC Scahffhausen)

In 1985, IWC Schaffhausen’s watchmaker Kurt Klaus changed the fortunes of his company at the height of the quartz crisis when he successfully realised an automatic perpetual calendar where all the calendar displays – the day, date, month, year and moon phase – can be adjusted with only the crown. Previous perpetual calendars had to be set by multiple pushers. This revolutionary invention first appeared in a Da Vinci watch that also featured a chronograph, and has since become a must-have mainstay in the Swiss manufacture’s perpetual calendar watches, including the new Portugieser.

(Related: Annual Vs. Perpetual Calendars, And Their Finest Examples This Year)

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The 1985 Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Photo: IWC Schaffhausen)
Above The 1985 Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Photo: Courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen)

Earlier this year, the complication appeared in a Portugieser commemorating IWC’s 150th anniversary in a red gold case available in a limited number of 250 pieces. This new Portugieser perpetual calendar comes in a platinum case, the first time that the classical line, first created for two businessmen from Portugal in 1939, boasts such a combination.

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Photo: IWC Schaffhausen
Above Front and back view of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar in platinum (Photo: Courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen)

The IWC 52615 perpetual calendar module corrects itself automatically until the year 2100. One of its more interesting features is the double moon display that shows the different phases of the moon as viewed from the southern and northern hemispheres. A special reduction gear enhances the precision such that it only deviates from the actual orbit of the earth’s satellite after 577 years. When you consider that, under normal circumstances, the moon’s orbit as indicated on the watch deviates by about 12 seconds in each lunar month, this mechanical ingenuity is pretty cool.

(Related: 6 Calendar Watches We Love)

The sapphire caseback offers a chance to admire the decorative beauty of the movement that is also fitted with the Pellaton winding system with ceramic components and an 18k red gold oscillating weight that corroborate to build up a power reserve of seven days.

 

This article first appeared on my.asiatatler.com

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