When we asked curator of Chaumet’s archives Béatrice de Plinval her favourite piece from the exhibition, she diplomatically answered that she loved them all. But upon gentle prodding, she admitted to having a soft spot for this Indian bayadère necklace: “It is sophistication, it is a pure fashion accessory (more than a social emblem), it is a masterpiece, it is so feminine, it is fragile, it’s wonderful,” she told us.
It was only in the early 1900s that an artistic exchange between the French jewellers and the royal houses of Japan and India blossomed. In fact, French jewellers would travel to India to discover the spectacular stones and parures owned by the maharajahs, who had acquired some of the most incredible diamonds, rubies and emeralds of the time. Chaumet had the honour of being the first French jeweller to go to India, and this majestic Bayadère necklace is just one of the many spectacular creations made for the maharajahs. Named after the tasselled chains worn by Hindu dancers, the necklace is constructed with natural seed pearls (it took the maison 30 years to find all of them), platinum, sapphire cabochons and rose-cut diamonds. The curators from Chaumet’s heritage department tell us they were most intimidated to touch this necklace due to the delicate nature of the seeds, and the fact that the needles required to thread the pearls are no longer in production.
(Related: 11 Watches That Do Double Duty As Both Jewellery And Timepiece)