Father's Day Gift Idea: The Pick Of The Montblanc Star Legacy Collection
June 8, 2018 | BY Brian Cheong
Montblanc is celebrating the 160th anniversary of Manufacture Minerva by reimagining its classic Star Legacy watches—with stunning results
Attention to detail has always been Montblanc’s strong suit, and nowhere is this more evident than in its redesigning of the Star Legacy in a new collection composed of six watches, including a limited edition tourbillon. Inspired by the Minerva pocket watches of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the new watches feature subtle updates that properly express the spirit of classical watchmaking at the Minerva manufacture in Villeret.
For instance, the round case now features a curved finish on the sides for a refined pebble-shaped effect. The crown boasts a distinctive onion shape emblazoned with the Montblanc rounded star logo that alludes to the snow-covered peak of Mont Blanc.
The Arabic numerals are slimmer for a more elegant touch, and appear on a dial embellished with exploding star guilloche and filet sauté guilloche, as well as a railway track marked by dots instead of lines, which is a rare design found in very few watches in the late 19th century and early 20th century. Put them all together, and you have a fantastic-looking timepiece, a veritable keeper for generations to come.
The new watches, all endowed with in-house movements, include an automatic chronograph, a full calendar with day, date, month and moonphase indicators, a simple moonphase, and an automatic date in steel and gold cases with a variety of fine leather straps from Montblanc’s very own leather atelier Pelletteria in Florence, Italy.
Double the pleasure
If you want to up your wrist game, the star piece of the Star Legacy is undoubtedly the Suspended Exo Tourbillon Limited Edition 58 with a prominent tourbillon cage at ‘6’. The gravity-correcting complication is equipped with a robust balance wheel measuring 14.5mm in diameter, and is raised 3.2mm higher than the dial so that it appears as if it is floating above it. Its position outside the cage also contributes to better timekeeping precision.
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Also, note how the tourbillon bridge doesn’t extend all the way across the counter, and consists of only one stainless steel arm on one side. This aesthetical twist requires major engineering adjustment where the balance’s axis must be perfectly perpendicular to the movement so as not to compromise performance. And since the tourbillon makes one full rotation per minute, its energy is also harnessed to indicate the seconds.
The hour-and-minute counter at ‘12’ is domed to match the three-dimensional tourbillon, and adorned with azure decoration. The main dial is crafted of 18k white gold while the 44.8mm case is made of 18k red gold. While this is limited to 58 pieces, the Suspended Exo Tourbillon is also available in a limited edition of 28 pieces with a case set with 54 baguette diamonds.
Then there is the Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph, which is a tribute to the watchmaker who invented the first patented chronograph. Rieussec’s chronograph was a time writer with two rotating discs, a design detail that distinguishes this special Montblanc watch. The horizontally aligned discs, which measure the 60-second and 30-minute elapsed time, rotate below a blued fixed double index.
Powered by an automatic monopusher movement, the hour-and-minute counter at ‘12’ also indicates a second time zone via a skeleton hand. This beautifully made non-limited chronograph comes with a 44.8mm stainless steel case and blue Sfumato alligator strap.
This article first appeared on my.asiatatler.com.
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