Recto co-creative director Paik Suk Chung (Photo: courtesy of Recto)
Cover Recto co-creative director Paik Suk Chung (Photo: courtesy of Recto)

Tatler spoke to Paik Suk Chung of Recto, the niche Korean fashion label that’s dressing K-pop stars—and blurring gender divide in fashion

Korean fashion is having far more than a moment: with South Korean celebrities taking luxury houses by storm and fascination with K-culture reaching new heights, consumers the world over are lusting over idol-approved names such as Miss Sohee and Minjunkim. That’s not to say there wasn’t a global presence before the advent of Squid Game and Blackpink: Rejina Pyo and Rokh are two brands which have been regulars at European fashion weeks for several years.

One of the most exciting names to know right now is Recto, a Seoul-based ready-to-wear label. Founded in 2014 by award-winning designer Ji Yeon Jung, Recto is part of a new wave of Korean fashion that’s defining the contemporary fashion uniform.

In case you missed it: 10 K-pop stars who became luxury brand ambassadors in 2023

Tatler Asia
Above Red Velvet’s Joy spotted wearing Recto (Photo: Instagram / @_imyour_joy)
Tatler Asia
Above Jessica Jung wears a Recto jacket (Photo: Instagram / @jessica.syj)

Stocked physically in Hong Kong’s Lane Crawford and globally on e-commerce sites such as HBX and Ssense, the brand’s minimalistic, androgynous, wearable approach to design has also won the likes of more than 250,000 followers on Instagram as well as appearing as the OOTDs of Korean footballer and Tottenham star Son Heung-min, internationally renowned DJ Peggy Gou and actress Gong Hyo-jin.

We spoke to Paik Suk Chung, the current co-creative director who came to Recto in 2020 after two decades at Hyundai Handsome, a prestigious Korean fashion company under The Handsome Group, about the secret of brand positioning and the potential of Asian fashion.

Read more: Ireneisgood founder Irene Kim on learning to be a brand owner and building on her success

Tatler Asia
Above Paik Suk Chung’s sketches for Recto (Photo: courtesy of Recto)

What sets Recto apart from other fashion brands?
Our ability to maintain a distinctive style while incorporating the latest fashion trends and new design elements. We pride ourselves on breaking down the boundaries between menswear and womenswear, allowing for mix-and-match combinations in diverse materials and styles, which ultimately facilitates a unique personal style.

Do you approach designing womenswear and menswear differently?
I strive to create an image that is inclusive and expansive, drawing inspiration from a broad framework. I enjoy blurring the lines between gender-specific clothing, where men can wear women’s accessories and women can wear men’s jackets.

Tatler Asia
Above Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)
Tatler Asia
Above Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)

What can you tell us about your autumn-winter 2023 collection?
The collection features impactful materials such as sequins, faux fur, aged leather and Shetland wool, which add excitement and completeness to the design. By drawing inspiration from a variety of sources and incorporating bold elements, I hope to create a collection that inspires and empowers those who wear it. For this collection. I started with the concept of the connection between a refined attitude and style. I wanted to explore how fashion could harmonise with good manners to create a complete and elegant aesthetic.

arrow left arrow left
arrow right arrow right
Photo 1 of 8 Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)
Photo 2 of 8 Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)
Photo 3 of 8 Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)
Photo 4 of 8 Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)
Photo 5 of 8 Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)
Photo 6 of 8 Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)
Photo 7 of 8 Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)
Photo 8 of 8 Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)

How do you balance creativity with commercial viability?
We recognise that, while creativity is important, the commercial viability of our brand is essential for its survival. That’s why we place a lot of emphasis on establishing a business structure that allows designers, marketers, merchandisers and sales teams to collaborate closely and maintain the best possible synergy and balance. 

Our focus on high quality and design excellence is complemented by our commitment to offering relatively affordable prices, which enhances our competitiveness in the market.

arrow left arrow left
arrow right arrow right
Photo 1 of 4 Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)
Photo 2 of 4 Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)
Photo 3 of 4 Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)
Photo 4 of 4 Recto autumn-winter 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)

What unique qualities can Asian fashion brands bring to the global market?
Asian fashion brands are known for incorporating diverse cultural elements into their designs, drawing inspiration from the rich history and cultural diversity of the region. They are able to maintain a high level of design quality while offering reasonable price ranges. By embracing the unique cultural heritage of the region, Asian brands can create designs that are both visually striking and culturally significant.

What more can be done to support emerging Korean designers?
There’s a saying: “What is most Korean is the most global”. I believe that it is important to approach this challenge with a mindset that values one’s roots and strives to be the best. Although it may seem abstract, I believe that our thoughts and beliefs have the power to influence change.

Tatler Asia
Above Recto spring-summer 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)
Tatler Asia
Above Recto spring-summer 2023 collection (Photo: courtesy of Recto)

How do you see Recto evolving?
As we look towards the future, we are planning to expand our brand’s physical presence on a global scale. We believe that creating unique and memorable experiences for our customers is crucial, and we are committed to finding new and innovative ways to showcase our designs and engage with our audience.

NOW READ

From old money to indie sleaze: Korean boutiques to shop at for this summer’s hottest fashion trends

How this Korean fashion designer takes inspiration from his ‘obsessions’

Ferragamo announces NCT’s Jeno as the Italian luxury brand’s first global male ambassador

Credits

Interview  

Special thanks to Lane Crawford

Topics