Cover Designer Peter Do (Photo: Masato Onoda / Tatler Asia)

The Vietnamese American designer will oversee Helmut Lang’s men’s and women’s collections from May 15

Helmut Lang, the iconic fashion brand of the ’90s that was founded in 1986 by the self-taught Austrian designer, has appointed New York-based designer Peter Do as its new creative director. 

There are many common qualities between Do and Lang that make the Vietnamese American designer a good fit for the role. For example, besides sharing a similar minimalistic and modern vision, the two creatives are also alike in their aversion to celebrity status. Do is known for refusing to show his face in publicity photos or press imagery, while Lang famously moved away from the runway extravagance of the 1990s in favour of more intimate presentations before retiring from fashion entirely in 2005.

Read more: Peter Do, fashion’s next great minimalist, is paving the way for emerging designers

Tatler Asia
Above Designer Peter Do at his spring/summer 2023 show at New York Fashion Week

Indeed, it’s a logical career progression for Do who first broke into the scene by winning the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers in 2014 for his graduation collection at Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), New York. After that, he gained experience working at Celine under creative director Phoebe Philo and designing for Derek Lam. 

In 2018, the Biên Hòa-born designer launched his eponymous label with a group of friends, and since then has become one of the hottest tickets at New York Fashion Week and is part of the new wave of emerging Asian American creatives. A functionalist, minimalist garment maker at heart, Do is known for his sharp tailoring and versatile styling––and is worn by everyone from K-pop star Jeno from boy band NCT to the average New Yorker. 

Tatler Asia
Above NCT's Jeno walked for Peter Do spring-summer 2023 show
Tatler Asia
Above Peter Do autumn-winter 2023 collection presents 20 pieces styled in 356 looks

In an interview with Tatler on his debut menswear line last year, Do told us that he was ready to take the namesake label to the global stage. “I really want to focus on the brand and get on [with] what we’re doing. Instead of searching for something, I’m very focused on what we’re doing. And I’m really excited to take Peter Do to the next level.” 

Now, on top of growing his own brand, Do will carry forward a rich legacy. According to the statement, Do’s affinity for Helmut Lang began during his formative years studying at the FIT. “No one embodied radical thinking more definitively than Helmut Lang. It is my deep honour to be entrusted with ushering in the next chapter of Helmut Lang’s legacy,” he says.

The Helmut Lang brand has undergone many changes since the founder left in 2005 to focus on his art. In 2007, it was revived by Link Theory Holdings, now a subsidiary of Fast Retailing, after it was acquired from the Prada Group. Designer couple Michael and Nicole Colovos were hired as co-creative directors to modernise the label’s aesthetic, and they moved it away from its founder’s edgier and more artistic viewpoint. After the Colovos’ departure in 2014, an anonymous in-house design team managed the label until Isabella Burley, the former editor-in-chief of Dazed, was appointed as editor-in-residence. To design Helmut Lang’s spring 2018 collection, Burley turned to Hood by Air’s fashion designer Shayne Oliver, who was succeeded by designers Mark Thomas and Thomas Cawson briefly in 2019 before both left after the spring 2020 season. 

Since then, an in-house design team has led the label. Do’s appointment as the brand’s newest creative director marks Helmut Lang’s most high-profile hire since Oliver’s tenure. “His clear and innovative approach to design very much aligns with the brand’s ethos and heritage. His experience with luxury fashion houses and his acclaimed eponymous label make him a natural choice for this role,” states Dinesh Tandon, Helmut Lang’s Chief Executive Officer. 

Peter Do’s first collection for Helmut Lang, spring/summer 2024, will debut in September 2023 as part of New York Fashion Week. Watch this space.

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