The Helmut Lang fashion show marked a fresh start for the brand under its new creative director Peter Do. The Vietnamese American fashion designer’s tailoring techniques were easily identifiable in the collection, blended neatly with the minimalism that the Helmut Lang label was known for in the ’90s. Black was the dominant colour palette, with pops of pink, yellow and other bright hues creating a playful contrast.

Also read: Peter Do, fashion’s next great minimalist, is paving the way for emerging designers

Indian designer Naeem Khan showcased excellent craftsmanship in both western and Indian attires. Think opulent saree, leopard print pieces, structured mini dresses and hooded gowns, all embellished with intricate embroidery and lace. He also paid homage to his home country by adorning the models with traditional Indian jewellery.

You might also like: How India’s fashion industry is weaving heritage into its fabric and designs

New York-based designer Sandy Liang channelled a modern, whimsical version of the cottagecore aesthetic with creations that featured plenty of gingham, pleats and puffed sleeves. Liang played around with textures and proportions, incorporating feminine touches such as satin bow details and sheer lace with artfully placed appliqué.

Vietnamese-American designer Bach Mai turned grief into beauty with his debut collection at New York Fashion Week. Having recently lost his father, Mai used the runway show as a celebration of his dad’s life, referencing things like cargo pockets and buckles from his father’s wardrobe in his collection. He also gave a nod to his Vietnamese heritage through a beautiful take on áo dài, the country’s national dress.

Canada-based designer Jason Wu brought marine vibes to the runway with creations that featured jellyfish and seaweed motifs, elegantly distressed skirts and coats that reminded one of torn ship sails, and wispy gowns in shades of aqua. The styling was on point with the seascape theme: models flaunted pearlescent skin and wet, slicked-back hair.

NOW READ

Hong Kong designer Celine Kwan on how dogs have inspired her upcoming Paris Fashion Week show

Singaporean designer Claudia Poh on her brand Werable, created for those with physical disabilities, and how inclusion should be ‘a circle that expands’

Tatler House Stories: From Bella Hadid’s sprayed-on dress to Barbiecore driving sales, are viral fashion moments valuable or harmful?