Cover Ling Tan wears Issey Miyake top and Bulgari B.Zero1 necklace

‘90s Malaysian supermodel Ling Tan emerges as a beacon of inspiration for aspiring Asian models who strive to redefine the conventional norms that have long dominated the fashion world

Fashion, a realm brimming with visionary pioneers and luminaries, is imbued with a symphony of compelling tales of triumph and transformation. Ling Tan’s story stands out as one of the many, a story that began in the bustling city of Kuala Lumpur and culminated on the global runways of the 1990s. During this journey, she left behind an enduring legacy that transcends the confines of runways, emerging as one of the first Asian supermodels to grace the international fashion sphere.

With such a remarkable recognition tied to her name, it’s only appropriate that the words I use live up to the indelible mark she has left on the fashion world, but the significance of such an inspirational legacy can only be properly encapsulated by first, peering through the lens of those she has empowered—and I am one of which.

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Above Louis Vuitton dress; Bulgari B.Zero1 necklace and rings

Like many who were enchanted by the extraordinary universe of fashion from a young age, I grew up buried within the pages of my mother’s fashion magazines. Spread across these pages were gorgeous models that often had blonde hair, large, defined eyes, and thin, pointed noses—everything I didn’t have. These models were carefully selected as the personifications of beauty, and none of them looked like me.

See also: 5 Asian beauty influencers breaking gender stereotypes and embodying diversity in beauty
 
The lack of diversity in the fashion industry has given rise to countless issues that transcend the scarcity of opportunities for people of colour, seeping into societal perceptions and shaping cultural narratives with harmful stereotypes against those who do not fit the mould of fashion’s ideal beauty. For many who are of Asian descent, we are all too familiar with the trials of discriminatory beauty standards.

Tatler Asia
Above Fendi dress; Bulgari B.Zero1 necklace and earrings
Tatler Asia
Above Giorgio Armani blouse and skirt; Bulgari B.Zero1 earrings, bracelets, and rings

Whilst there is undoubtedly still a long way to go, the fashion landscape of today embraces a broader spectrum of identities, heralding a new era of inclusivity with the rise of Asian visibility on major runways and magazine covers. Young talents can now see reflections of themselves woven into the grand tapestry of fashion—faces that resemble theirs, stories that echo their own. And, in a story that unfolded in the heart of our motherland, one of the first Asian faces to adorn fashion’s opulent fabric was none other than Ling Tan, who illuminated the runways for those who came after, including her very own sister.

Tatler Asia
Above Louis Vuitton corset and pants; Bulgari B.Zero1 rings
Tatler Asia
Above Louis Vuitton corset and pants; Bulgari B.Zero1 earrings, necklace, and rings

Born into a modest family in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Tan was raised with a firm understanding that hard work was not a choice but a way of life, instilled in her by her father, who was a taxi driver, and her mother, a seamstress. To break barriers and challenge the orthodox, one must pursue their aspirations with unwavering resilience and diligence. Tan’s humble roots ran deep in the soil of tenacious perseverance that became the anchor that steadied her in the tempest of the ever-challenging industry.

Tatler Asia
Above Amazae dress

With an academic background in art and design, Tan has always had an affinity for artistic expression long before she stepped onto the global fashion stage. Then, in the serendipitous dance of fate, the curtains rose on her modelling odyssey when an advertising executive approached her as she was waiting for a friend in a hotel lobby, and her creative spirit would find a new form of expression. In the face of rigid beauty standards and discriminatory notions in the industry, she soared into the big leagues and became a canvas for some of fashion’s most renowned talents, opening doors for aspiring Asian models along the way.

See also: Female fashion designers who celebrate women and womanhood

Tatler Asia
Above Rick Owens skirt; stylist Wee Chee’s own customised top

Seeing more Malaysian designers and models succeed on an international scale is indeed a source of pride. I'm very proud of them.

- Ling Tan -

Marked by a chance encounter, Tan’s journey in the fashion industry—now spanning nearly three decades and counting—is a story that serves as a testament to the boundless possibilities that await those who dare to explore beyond limits. As the Lunar New Year approaches, the supermodel has made a long-awaited return to her homeland. In conversation with Ling Tan, we uncover the many layers of her illustrious career.

How has the modelling landscape evolved throughout the years since you first entered the scene?

The modelling landscape has indeed evolved significantly since the 1990s. The rise of the internet and social media have transformed the modelling industry, allowing models to actively engage with their audience, showcase their work, and establish personal brands. Having a strong digital presence has become crucial for visibility and career advancement, providing models with new opportunities to connect with clients and fans globally. Advancements in technology have also influenced the way models are scouted, with online platforms and digital portfolios playing a more prominent role in a model’s career.

What was the most unforgettable moment from your modelling career?

I would say the most unforgettable moment in my modelling career was working with the legendary photographer Richard Avedon for the prestigious Pirelli Calendar 1997. Joanne Gair, the body painter, told me that she had never painted dragons before, especially with the unique challenge of dragons. I vividly remember her spending six hours to paint two dragons on my body, whilst Richard Avedon took ten minutes to photograph on film. Such collaborations with iconic artists make up most of the defining moments in my modelling career.

You have worked with numerous legendary designers throughout your career, including the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, Thierry Mugler, and Vivienne Westwood. Who are some of your favourites, and what was it like working with them?

I have many favourites, and the ones you mentioned are definitely amongst them, along with John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. Each designer was different to work with as they all had their own unique artistic vision and creative approach, and it was always fascinating to not only witness their individual magic in real life but also be a part of it.

Having made history as the first Asian model to walk a Victoria’s Secret runway show, as well as one of Southeast Asia’s first supermodels, you have paved the way for many Asian models who came after you. What advice do you have for our local models who aspire to follow your path?

Having a positive mindset, curiosity, continuous learning, adaptability, and embracing change are crucial elements for a successful modelling career. Following your passion, prioritising your well-being, and doing what makes you happy will ensure a fulfilling and sustainable journey in the modelling industry.

Contrary to popular belief, modelling is not all glitz and glamour. What are some of the realities of modelling that most people don’t know about? 

The modelling industry definitely has its challenges. Last-minute job confirmations, flight bookings, and the constant possibility of job cancellations or conflicts can be common occurrences. The unpredictable nature of the business requires models to be adaptable and resilient, managing uncertainties whilst maintaining professionalism. It’s a side of the modelling industry that often goes unnoticed.

Do you think there are still great challenges to overcome for women of a certain age in the modelling industry today? Or is this changing for the better, from your observation?

While the modelling industry has made strides in diversifying beauty standards, challenges for women of a certain age persist. The industry often emphasises youth and freshness, making it challenging for older models to secure prominent roles. However, there is a growing awareness of the need for greater diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry, with more models of colour and different body types starting to appear in global fashion shows and campaigns. Many brands and fashion designers are actively seeking to represent a broader range of ages, reflecting a positive shift in the fashion industry.

What kind of positive changes would you personally like to see that benefit female models in the modelling and fashion industries? Particularly, any changes that you feel you would have benefitted from as an up-and-coming model? 

The modelling industry is one of the few in which women are paid better than their male counterparts. To further enhance inclusivity, I would like to see increased representation of diverse body types, ethnicities, and ages in mainstream fashion. Promoting a healthy work environment, prioritising models’ well-being, and fostering inclusivity are essential changes. The industry should also provide more support and mentorship programs for up-and-coming models regardless of gender, which could contribute to a more equitable and empowering industry.

Looking back, is there a mentor, creative director or some influential leader who helped build your career and set you on the right path? If so, tell us who!

When I first came to New York City from Kuala Lumpur in 1994 to start my modelling career, Ivan Bart was the first model agent I met when I signed with IMG Models. Ivan was a visionary who changed my life when I first entered the modelling scene in New York City. He helped me see things that I had yet to see in myself; he believed in me even though my English was very poor and he didn’t speak any Chinese. I am eternally honoured to have had such an amazing mentor like Ivan Bart in my years at IMG Models.

It’s been a long time since you have been back in Malaysia. How has it been so far?

I’m amazed at how much Malaysia have modernised, from urban rail lines to new shopping malls, along with the addition of iconic structures like Merdeka 118, these are just some of the things that showcase the country’s progress. In terms of the local fashion scene, seeing more Malaysian designers and models succeed on an international scale is indeed a source of pride, reflecting the talent and diversity within the country’s fashion industry. I’m very proud of them.

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