Kebaya: Should this Malaysian blouse be included in UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage List?

Malaysian fashion industry powerhouses weigh in on the topic and share their love for one of Southeast Asia's most recognisable garments

This year, Malaysia, Brunei, Indonesia, Singapore, and Thailand jointly submitted the traditional kebaya blouse to be included in the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco) Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. “It represents and celebrates our rich and shared history, promotes cross-cultural understanding, and continues to be present across Southeast Asia,” says the Malaysian Ministry of Tourism, Arts and Culture.

The kebaya originated around the 15th century in the court of the Majapahit empire in eastern Java, now Indonesia. It was initially a tailored blouse worn over their traditional kemban torso wrap but evolved to include peniti (safety pins) to fasten the blouse. This versatile garment swiftly gained popularity among communities in Indonesia and neighbouring Southeast Asian countries, each region infusing its unique cultural elements into the kebaya, adapting it to suit their specific needs.

In Malaysia, the kebaya blouse is particularly associated with the Peranakan community, also known as Baba Nyonya. This community comprises the descendants of Chinese immigrants who arrived in the Malay-Indonesian archipelago of Nusantara during the colonial era in the late 15th and 16th centuries. The kebaya also holds significant cultural importance for women in Malaysia's Chetty, Siamese, and Malay communities, contributing to their identity and heritage.

Peranakan Chinese and Baba-Nyonya are terms used for the descendants of late 15th and 16th-century Chinese immigrants to the Malay-Indonesian archipelago of Nusantara during the Colonial era. Members of this community in Malaysia identify themselves as 'Nyonya-Baba' or 'Baba-Nyonya'. Nyonya is the term for the females and Baba for males. It applies especially to the ethnic Chinese populations of the British Straits Settlements of Malaya and the Dutch-controlled island of Java and other locations, who adopte

Above Singapore-Malaysia: Two young Nyonya women posing in a photo studio, early 20th century (Photo by: Pictures From History/Universal Images Group via Getty Images)

Over the last few centuries, the kebaya has gone through many evolutions. However, in all its forms, it remains a cherished, respected and distinctive part of Malaysia and Southeast Asia's cultural heritage—making a strong case for these countries' bid to be included on Unesco's List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Ahead of the decision, we speak to three respected figures in Malaysia's fashion industry, including fashion designers Alia Bastamam and Dato' Tom Abang Saufi, Malay textiles collector and Asian art history expert John Ang. They share their love and appreciation for the traditional garment.

Alia Bastamam

Above Alia Bastamam

“I appreciate the multicultural origins of the Kebaya. From Java to the Peranakan, it truly is a mix of Southeast Asian cultures and it's this mix that inspires my designs. I try not to be specific to a culture when I design; instead, I view Southeast Asia as a whole because all our various cultures share many beautiful similarities,” shares Alia Bastamam, who is known for her ability to perfectly balance modern and traditional elements in her designs.

Her favourite memory of the kebaya is from Dato' Rizalman Ibrahim's creations from the early 2000s. “He created a collection of bright-coloured kebaya tops worn with micro-mini skirts which I became quite obsessed with,” she shares.

“I also inherited Kebaya pieces from my great grandmother. I studied the construction of those pieces meticulously; I even upcycled one into a wrap dress with a very simple tweak. The kebaya design is ingrained in my work. In fact, my signature wrap top with its pointed hemline is a kebaya redux."

She notes how the kebaya being recognised by the UN would be a significant moment in history. “For us in Malaysia, the kebaya has been passed down through generations of women. It's deeply rooted in our personal and cultural history of the different communities in this country, such as the Nyonya community in Melaka.”

John Ang

Above John Ang

John Ang has devoted his life to Malay textiles. He is known for organising exhibitions on Asian art, most notably on Malay kelingkan embroidery at the Terengganu State Museum as well as a recent event showcasing his own collection of 650 Malay textiles. For him, the kebaya “enhances a woman's beauty, femininity and sensuality in the most elegant way.”

“Because of its long history and its simple structure with an opening in the centre, there is so much potential for it to incorporate innovative new patterns, colours and cut while maintaining its original form. It is able to be part of what we call a ‘living culture’, where tradition can continue to be partnered with innovation,” he says.

He points to the rising trend of pleated kebaya blouses by fashion designers in Indonesia and Malaysia, which allows them to experiment with different types of silhouettes as well as fabrics not commonly associated with the traditional garment.

Dato' Tom Abang Saufi

Above Dato' Tom Abang Saufi (Photo: Zaloraya 2023)

“My designs have always been inspired by Malaysian heritage. Naturally, I often refer to the kebaya and it is one of the traditional garments I love the most,” shares the veteran fashion designer with more than 30 years of experience in the industry, known for her ability to weave traditional elements with modern silhouettes in her creations.

Dato' Tom Abang Saufi is also vocal about size-inclusivity, ensuring her designs can be worn by women of all sizes. “One of my favourite kebaya styles was popular in the 1950s, with slim-fitting waist and see-through material; it was the epitome of sensuality and femininity in Southeast Asia. For a while, the design was quite limited to a certain size but these days, they are accessible for all women,” says the Sarawak-born designer.

She also notes the wide variety of kebaya blouses for women to enjoy. "For me, I prefer to wear the longer kebaya tops with more relaxed silhouettes," she shares.

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Topics

Kebaya UNESCO Traditional Southeast Asia

Tatler Asia

Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage List: Why the traditional kebaya blouse should be included

Alia Bastamam

John Ang

Dato' Tom Abang Saufi