MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 24:  Models walk the runway during the Moschino fashion show as part of Milan Fashion Week  Spring/Summer 2016 on September 24, 2015 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)
Cover During his time at Moschino, Jeremy Scott influenced many trends that became popular later (Photo: Getty Images)

From Barbiecore to red carpet camp, the designer’s creations not only celebrated irreverence, but also served as a barometer for trends to come

Jeremy Scott has stepped down from Moschino after serving as the Italian fashion brand’s creative director for ten years. During this decade, the designer brought joy, whimsy and pop-culture-infused fashion to the runways and red carpets. 

Be it tongue-in-cheek collections referencing paper dolls for spring-summer 2017 and rubber rings in the autumn-winter season just gone, or over-the-top glamour inspired by chandeliers and crystals galore at the Met Gala, through each creation, Scott has pushed the boundaries of fashion, gleefully dismissing expectations and setting trends. Here are five instances when Scott was ahead of his time.

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1. Barbiecore

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MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 18:  A model walks the runway at the Moschino Spring Summer 2015 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on September 18, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images)
Above Scott had put Barbie in the spotlight in his 2015 spring-summer collection (Photo: Getty Images)
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NEW YORK, NEW YORK - MAY 06:  Kacey Musgraves and Jeremy Scott attend The 2019 Met Gala Celebrating Camp: Notes on Fashion at Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 06, 2019 in New York City. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/MG19/Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue)
Above Singer Kacey Musgraves’ 2019 Met Gala look was inspired by Barbie (Photo: Getty Images)

In 2015, Scott put Barbie in the spotlight in his spring-summer collection—with two-piece sets emblazoned with “Moschino” in signature pink Barbie cursive font—long before the first look of the Barbie film was revealed in 2022 and this shade of pink became a viral TikTok trend. The resurgence of the iconic doll’s popularity can also be attributed to singer Kacey Musgraves’ 2019 Met Gala look—for the event, Scott dressed the American country singer in a hot-pink motorcycle jacket-style gown by Moschino, inspired by a limited-edition Moschino Barbie doll. 

Read more: The Barbie Movie: 5 Things to Know

2. Kitschy cool

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MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 20:  A model walks the runway at the Moschino Autumn Winter 2014 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 20, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images)
Above Scott’s debut collection for Moschino gave a sly wink at fast-food brands like McDonalds (Photo: Getty Images)
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MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 24:  Chaelin Lee attends the Moschino show during the Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016 on September 24, 2015 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)
Above K-pop rapper CL in Moschino (Photo: Getty Images)

If you had to choose just one word to describe Scott’s tenure at Moschino, it’s kitsch. His very first collection for Moschino—in autumn-winter 2014—had multiple tongue-in-cheek references to the likes of McDonalds and Hershey’s Chocolate (think an haute couture gown draped in the shape of the candy brand’s famous Kisses), setting the trend for the ironic use of brand logos from 2017 onwards. For his 2015 autumn-winter collection, Scott incorporated stuffed animals into hip streetwear, winning the affection of celebrities such as K-pop rapper CL and heralding the trend of plushies attached to outfits in South Korean fashion.

3. Plastic fantastic

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MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23:  A model walks the runway at the Moschino Autumn Winter 2017 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2017 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images)
Above Scott transformed trash bags into chic dresses in 2017 (Photo: Getty Images)
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MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23:  A model walks the runway at the Moschino Autumn Winter 2017 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2017 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images)
Above Scott reimagined what couture could mean with his plastic bag dress (Photo: Getty Images)

“Couture is an attitude”—that was the message printed on Scott’s T-shirt as he came out to take a bow after Moschino’s autumn-winter 2017 collection. The same message was loud and clear throughout the show as Scott transformed, with gusto, the concept of plastic bags into carrier bag minidresses and chic rubbish bag gowns complete with a dustbin-lid fascinator. In a way, Scott’s collection can be seen as a predecessor of the current, highly popular trends of luxury trash bags (Balenciaga’s trash pouch) and exaggerated plastic footwear (MSCHF’s big red boots).

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4. Big brand collaborations

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MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 20:  A model walks the runway at the Moschino Autumn Winter 2014 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 20, 2014 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images)
Above Scott’s collections were strewn with pop culture references (Photo: Getty Images)
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MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 26:  Accessories bag detail on the runway at the Moschino Autumn Winter 2015 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 26, 2015 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images)
Above Moschino collaborated with “Looney Tunes” for 2015 Milan Fashion Week (Photo: Getty Images)

Scott was doing big-brand collaborations at Moschino since 2015, years before the recent wave of massive crossovers like Gucci x Adidas and Fendace. Over the years, the designer collaborated with a range of brands, from fast-fashion behemoths like H&M to cartoons like Looney Tunes and Spongebob Squarepants right down to The Sims video games, cashing in on the allure of combined star power.

5. Camp glamour

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NEW YORK, NEW YORK - MAY 06: Bella Hadid and Jeremy Scott arrive for the 2019 Met Gala celebrating Camp: Notes on Fashion at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 06, 2019 in New York City. (Photo by Karwai Tang/Getty Images)
Above Bella Hadid in Moschino at 2019 Met Gala (Photo: Getty Images)
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NEW YORK, NY - MAY 07:  Jeremy Scott and Cardi B attend the Heavenly Bodies: Fashion & The Catholic Imagination Costume Institute Gala at Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 7, 2018 in New York City.  (Photo by George Pimentel/Getty Images)
Above Cardi B in Moschino at 2018 Met Gala (Photo: Getty Images)

The 2019 Met Gala theme, Camp: Notes on Fashion, gave Scott the perfect opportunity to flex his expertise in calculated drama. Model Bella Hadid’s hip cut-out, crystal-embellished gown served a memorable look for the night, but this wasn’t Scott’s first foray into red-carpet OTT glam—he had dressed rapper Cardi B in an opulent bishop-inspired champagne ensemble the previous year for the Met’s Heavenly Bodies theme, paving the way for red carpet style to reach theatrical heights ever since. 

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