In Paris, expect Harris Reed’s first collection for Nina Ricci. The up-and-coming Gen Z designer has gained recognition for his couture-like craftsmanship, gender-fluid aesthetics and customised extravagant ensemble for A-listers. It will be exciting to see how Reed’s daring and romantic approach collides with Nina Ricci’s French identity. Another newcomer is Ann Demeulemeester’s new creative director Ludovic de Saint Sernin. With his own namesake brand known for its sexy glamour, the Belgium-born (just like Demeulemeester) and Paris-based designer is expected to bring a creative change for the company.

Fresh take

The new season also sees some brands swapping previously preferred locations, which is often associated with fresh creativity. American designer Heron Preston, who has established a strong presence in streetwear and collaborations, and had showed in Paris since 2017, is holding his first “proper runway show” on February 11 in New York, after living in the city for almost 20 years. Expect tons of New York references. Thom Browne is also coming home to New York City on Valentine’s Day after almost a decade at Paris Fashion Week.

Moving onto Milan, the sophomore collections of Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo, Rhuigi Villaseñor at Bally, and Marco de Vincenzo at Etro will no doubt be exciting, but we’re also holding our breath for promising Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi, who’ll showcase a new special project with support from Dolce & Gabbana. 

Millennial and Gen Z readers might be familiar with the name of Pierre Cardin, thanks to the maverick character of Pierre Cadault in Emily in Paris (it’s speculated that the show’s genius designer is modelled after the real-life prolific designer Pierre Cardin). Back to real life, the historic French house will return to Paris after showing around the world: on the Great Wall of China, in Moscow, at the Palais Bulles in Provence, and in Venice in 2022. Headed by the founder’s nephew, Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, the show will take place in the historic boutique at Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré number 59. 

Meanwhile, three years after its last show in Paris, British house Alexander McQueen will present its AW23 collection at Paris Fashion Week on March 4. Palm Angels, the Italian label led by Francesco Ragazzi, is the new name arriving on the Parisian scene, its first-ever PFW show will be unveiled on March 5.

 Viral potential

Although it’s hard to predict what might go viral on social media, we will watch out for Coperni, the French label founded by Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer, whose video of a dress being sprayed live on Bella Hadid went viral last season. The question is: will they top that this season? Schiaparelli is also presenting another collection shortly after becoming one of the most-talked-about couture shows in January for its life-like animal embroideries on dresses and coats. The surrealist house has been hosting presentations for its ready-to-wear range during Paris Fashion Week; this time, creative director Daniel Roseberry is set to showcase its ready-to-wear collection on runway for the first time. 

In case you missed it: The most surreal looks of Paris Couture Fashion Week: Schiaparelli, Viktor & Rolf and more

On the other hand, Balenciaga is returning to the official calendar on March 5 after being absent from couture week. The decision is seen as the Kering-owned brand’s reentry into the public eye following its explosive campaign controversy last November. Last but not the least, PFW regulars Paco Rabanne and Vivienne Westwood will return, however, marking their first collections since the passing of the founders. Two shows are scheduled for March 1 and 4 respectively. 

Watch this space for more coverage from AW23 fashion weeks.

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