9 Brands You Should Know If You Miss Phoebe Philo's Céline
Ever since the designer's departure from Celine, spotlights have been roaming in search of her successor as fashion's purveyor of avant-garde minimalism.
With the launch of Bottega Veneta's pre-fall 2019 collection, Celine alum Daniel Lee was slated to fill the void, while up-and-coming designers such as Peter Do (also ex-Celine) have been churning out covetable chic-minimalist collections to whet Philophiles' appetites.
Here, we round up the most likely candidates to fill those square-toed pumps.
1/9 Bottega Veneta
32-year-old British designer Daniel Lee worked under Phoebe Philo before replacing Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta, and it shows.
His pre-fall collection had Philophiles excited over the oversized totes and boxy tailoring clearly reminiscent of his Celine days, and most recently, the accessories shown at his autumn/winter 2019 runway in Milan featured minaudieres and handbags in every shape and size. We're willing to bet they'll be flying off the shelves as soon as they hit stores.
2/9 Jil Sander
Timeless sophisitication has always been Jil Sander's modus operandi, but they're striking a chord now more than ever–and they know it. Their autumn/winter 2019 collection was one look after another of statement one-piece knits and oversized suits in every shade of neutral.
The best part? Architectural clutches tucked nonchalantly under the arm, or swung vertically from the wrists.
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3/9 Peter Do
After graduating from the Fashion Institute of Technology, the New-York based designer won the LVMH Prize for Graduates and was recruited to join Celine under Philo’s tutelage, before launching his eponymous label in January 2018.
His spring/summer 2019 collection inspired by Irving Penn’s portraits of people in uniform was a roaring success. Do focused on construction and tailoring—a voluminous, sheer shirt would sit over an asymmetrically pleated skirt, a printed button-up shirt would have floor-length sleeves, and knits and jackets would have shoulders slashed open. It’s a breathtaking and powerful line of sexy workwear with a distinctly Philo-esque twang yet uniquely and elegantly balanced as only Do can do.
JW Anderson brought his signature touch of understated elegance to Loewe that many couldn't help but think is aimed at filling the Philo void.
Poet’s-sleeve blouses, simple yet sophisticated construction and a dash of Pilgrim-esque purity dominated his autumn/winter 2019 show and we're sure will be found on street style stars all over the pavement next season.
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Founded in 2012 by fashion director of Russian’s Harper Bazaar, Natalia Alaverdian, A.W.A.K.E. (All Wonderful Adventures Kindle Enthusiasm) is a line known for its off-kilter construction and plenty of exaggerated tailoring.
Alaverdian takes inspiration from Japanese art and culture–think deconstructed shirts and sculptural suiting, finished with an unexpected accessory be it a hand-shaped belt or supersized straw hat.
6/9 JW Anderson
Oversized gold chain chokers and wide belts cinching in balloon dresses and draped tweed coats, JW Anderson's latest collection is a display of mastery in his ability to create simple, yet statement-making garments.
Simplicity was at the core of his inspiration this season as he wanted to let every line of every silhouette speak for itself, hiding nothing under frills. Now that's a mantra we're sure Philophiles could get behind.
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On the more masculine end of the scale is ex-streetstyle photographer Tommy Ton's label Deveaux, which takes inspiration from the likes of Celine and The Row. Known for his use of multigenerational models and pieces that border on being gender-fluid (the same piece was put on a female and male model in his fall/winter 2019 show).
Here you'll find floor-length scarves draped over cashmere twinsets and plenty of oversized suits paired with loafers that would look flattering on both 18 and 80-year-olds alike.
A favourite of Moda Operandi's fashion director Lisa Aiken, Joseph is known for their casual-cosy pieces with a subtle avant-garde twinge, but you'd only see it if you look closely.
Take their teddy coats and wool ponchos paired with a giant soft clutch or a slightly asymmetrical shirt dress paired with leather mules. Even the most discerning of fashion friends would appreciate these gems.
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Elevated workwear with a touch of colour is how most would describe Amy Smilovic's brand Tibi, which has been going strong in the last few years thanks to her use of rich materials, unexpected colors and unusual details (like PVC belts) to create everyday statement pieces.
This article first appeared on hk.asiatatler.com.