Cover (Image: Byredo)

What’s new for 2021 in the world of fragrances? Explore our list of the best, coolest, most thought-provoking (really!) olfactory launches for both men and women for the year so far, and wear your favourites like your armour

From fresh floral scents to heftier cognac fragrances, discover our pick of the best new perfume and cologne for 2021, so far.

If you lean towards unisex scents, ultra-cool cult brand Byredo has launched a pandemic-inspired Mixed Emotions, while Hennessy heir, Kilian Hennessy of Kilian Paris, has launched a pair of scents inspired by cognac (how appropriate!) and gin. 

The new Bulgari Allegra collection is a brave, unusual take on a perfume range, where layering two different scents is key to creating your own bespoke fragrance. Meanwhile, Hermès H24 is the first men’s cologne from the French maison in 15 years and Penhaligons celebrates its founder, William Penhaligon's, a barber-turned-perfumer who dressed the royal court in the 1800s in his bespoke olfactory creations. 

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Bulgari Allegra

Bulgari’s newest olfactory launch, the Bulgari Allegra collection, is a concept that is reinventing the way that one can create a personalised fragrance. The collection begins with you picking one of the five eau de parfum in the core collection. The Allegra range challenges you to personalise it with one of the five Magnifying Essences which can be layered over your base scent. Every Magnifying Essence is designed to perfectly blend with any of the five core eau de parfum created by LVMH’s master perfumer Jacques Cavallier who dreamt up this sophisticated scent mixing system. Each Magnifying Essence stands beautifully on its own, yet when layered over the chosen eau de parfum, gives it a completely different dimension and thus, your own bespoke perfume. 

(Related: Create Your Personalised Perfume With the Bulgari Allegra Collection)

Jo Malone London Blossoms 2021

This is the 10th year anniversary of Jo Malone London’s annual Blossoms fragrance range, a capsule inspired by exotic locations and their flowers. This year, they put the spotlight on the hibiscus, which is an interesting choice as it’s not a flower that you can obtain an extract from. So they tasted hibiscus tea as a starting point and carried that over to the two fragrances the yellow hibiscus and the red hibiscus.

Nose at Jo Malone London, Mathilde Bijaoui describes the yellow hibiscus as a “light, solar floral scent” with “slightly tart, sparkling quality in the top notes” and white musk and benzoin in its base. The Red Hibiscus is "solar-sensual: warm, deep, voluptuous, a touch oriental and also floral, but with a wonderful lushness and intensity,” and best paired with the new Nectarine Blossom & Honey Body Mist.

Penhaligon's Portraits: William Penhaligon

The latest edition to the Portraits family of fragrances: a unique series of Penhaligon's scents inspired by the different characters in the British aristocracy and created by the industry’s top noses—is none other than the founder of Penhaligon's himself, the inimitable William Penhaligon. Like the other Portraits, this eponymous scent is imbued with specific characteristics of the people they represent—both in the formulation of the scent and the brass animal head that sits atop the perfume bottle, in this case, a ram.

The British founder, who set up shop in the 1870s, has always been a good friend of the royalty and made cologne for them and nobles. It's described as woody oriental cologne for gentlemen: distinguished, uplifting—and definitely inimitable like its namesake.

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Byredo Mixed Emotions

Art imitates life, and Byredo founder and creative director Ben Gorham is doing exactly that with the launch of its newest eau de parfum, Mixed Emotions—a name that describes the tumultuous nature of our times; and the world in constant change. ”We’re in the business of bottling up emotions. I hope that people read the label and identify with that sentiment in its simplest form, and then find something deeper to relate to: the juxtaposition between the familiar and the unfamiliar,” Gorham says. The scent is (and suitably) an oxymoron and very intriguing. One finds comfort in top notes of maté and the sharp sweetness of cassis and leads into the familiar scent of Ceylon black tea, but then is provoked by violet leaves notes. A must-try. 

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Kilian Paris: Angels’ Share and Roses on Ice

Fancy a boozy unisex scent? Kilian Hennessy—Hennessy heir and founder of Kilian Paris—has two on his menu for you: the Angels’ Share and Roses on Ice, both served in art deco glassware and launched together.

Angels’ Share has clear top notes of cognac, and who better to dream up a cognac-inspired scent than someone who is a Hennessy? Perfumer Benoist Lapouza was inspired by the alcohol evaporation during the aging process of cognac, poetically referred to as "part des anges" or Angels’ Share in English—thus the name of this new olfactive creation. Accompanying the rich cognac are middle notes of cinnamon, tonka bean, and oak and base notes of praline, vanilla, and sandalwood.

(Related: 15 of the Best Asian Gins to Drink Right Now

Roses on Ice, on the other hand, is a cocktail of gin distilled with rose and cucumber, on ice—it’s said to be Hennessy’s wife, Elisabeth’s favourite drink. Created by nose Frank Voelkl, its aquatic spring scent is accompanied by the freshness of cucumber, lime, and juniper berries. As the scent dries, notes of sandalwood and musk appear alongside the sharpness of gin.

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Hermès H24 cologne

What would the Hermès menswear collection smell like? In-house Hermès nose Christine Nagel has the answer: Hermès H24. While researching for this cologne, which also happens to be the first new scent for men in 15 years, Nagel spent a lot of time with the artistic director of the Hermès men’s universe, Véronique Nichanian.

Described as a “vibrant, sensual and luminous” fragrance, H24 centres around three key ingredients. First, the clary sage (salvia sclarea), an inviting freshness that envelopes its user. Next, Nagel picked the narcissus absolute: "a flower that is in fact not quite a flower,” said the press notes. “In addition to its green, crisp, and edgy side, it exhales a certain memory of nocturnal tobacco”, and sits alongside the clary sage. Finally the rare rosewood essence, a rose in name only, extracted from a wild South American tree. “I chose it for its simple and natural botanical freshness. We were lucky enough to be able to source it from producers in Peru whose eco-responsible initiative, supported by the house, involves harvesting it and replanting the species in a way that respects the environment,” explains Nagel. The refillable perfume bottle, designed by Philippe Mouquet, shows off its aerodynamic lines, and like the scent within, is a perfect balance of classicism and innovation.

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