Cover Pat McGrath's porcelain doll look from Maison Margiela's spring 2024 couture show (Photo: Pat McGrath Labs)

The wait is over—here’s how you can recreate Pat McGrath’s viral beauty look from the Maison Margiela couture 2024 runway show

One for the fashion history books, Maison Margiela’s spring 2024 couture by John Galliano, was undeniably one of the most extraordinary shows that the fashion world has seen in a long while. The fantastical opulence and theatrical storytelling that defined Galliano’s time at Dior throughout the late ‘90s and early ‘00s has been resurrected, but not without the incredible artistry of the designer’s long-time beauty sidekick and the mother of makeup, Pat McGrath.

Read more: 5 Paris Couture Week 2024 highlights from Schiaparelli, Maison Margiela, Rahul Mishra and more you might have missed

Models were turned into porcelain dolls with their cheeks flushed in pastel hues, eyes washed in various jewel tones, eyebrows drawn into thin lines, and their skin coated in a hyper-reflective glaze, making them glisten like smooth, polished glass—absolute masterpieces, needless to say.

Whilst the collection certainly rendered fashion enthusiasts utterly awestruck, so did the beauty looks that truly added the crowning touches to Galliano’s vision. In fact, McGrath’s astonishing makeup artistry for the show was a major sensation on its own, sending the internet into a frenzy as the beauty realm floods social media with their takes on the look.

Professional makeup artists and beauty geeks alike all shared their own theories on how McGrath achieved that surreal, porcelain glass finish on the models’ skin, suggesting various techniques and products that McGrath might have used to create the look, and some weren’t too far off.

Well, the secret is finally out. A week after the show, McGrath and her team recreated the look in an Instagram and TikTok live masterclass, revealing the full details behind the magic. So, how did she do it?

The shiny glass skin effect resulted from McGrath’s own concoction of various products, most of which were peel-off face masks—including Freeman’s Renewing Cucumber Peel-Off Gel Facial Mask, as many had suspected. “There was a glue applied to certain areas of the face to give that extra longevity. Because as you know, this look needed to last for three hours,” she explained, with her assistant later revealing that they used a water-based special effects glue. Here’s how it went down:

First, McGrath used her very own Pat McGrath Labs Divine Skin: Rose 001 The Essence to prep the skin, creating a satin base before applying her Sublime Perfection Foundation. Saving the complete makeup details for later, the look was topped off with her custom blend of products, which consisted of the Freeman Renewing Cucumber Peel-Off Gel Facial Mask, Proot Calendula Peel-Off Mask, Daggett & Ramsdell Tea Tree Peel-Off Mask, Que Bella Pineapple and last but not least, the Hydrating Pineapple Peel-Off Mask.

The mixture was diluted with distilled water before applying it onto the skin in eight delicate layers using an airbrush, and each layer was set with a blow dryer. McGrath also confirmed the use of Kryolan’s Liquid Glass Gel, although it was only applied as a sealer after the first layer. As the final touch, the look was finished with yet another custom blend of glosses, the ingredients of which she has yet to reveal. And there you have it!

“It was a real scientific work in progress,” McGrath confessed during the live stream, adding that they have been experimenting with different formulations and techniques for three years. And being the legendary fairy godmother of makeup that she is, the beloved beauty maestro confirmed that she will be launching her own glass skin glaze product soon.

See also: Beauty game-changers: The best new make-up and skincare products you need in 2024
 
In the meantime, for those who want to recreate the iconic porcelain doll makeup, McGrath came through with a tip sheet that was released following the masterclass, detailing all the products she used along with guidelines to nail some of the stand-out looks from the show.

McGrath shared in the sheet, “The makeup for the show plays with a modern take on porcelain glass skin. Brows are bleached and replaced by pencil-thin arches drawn on using neutral-toned shadows. Variations of a painterly eye appear in a stunning array of jewel tones, pastels or moody charcoals.”
 
“Cream blush is applied to the centre of the cheeks for a doll-like flush. On the lips, subversive shades of blooded red and black are topped in clear gloss for a surreal pout. Finally, skin is coated in a hyper-shiny glaze, mimicking the smooth, reflective quality of glass and completing the models’ unbelievable metamorphosis,” she added. 

Get the full rundown below: 

Tatler Asia
Above McGrath's pro-tip: Create a natural glass-like finish by prepping the skin with Divine Skin: Rose 001 The Essence, followed by the Sublime Perfection Foundation. For the ultimate glowing cheeks, apply and blend the Divine Blush: Legendary Glow Colour Balm for a flushed doll-like look.

PRODUCTS

Skin: Divine Skin: Rose 001 The Essence
Cheeks: Divine Blush: Legendary Glow Colour Balm in shades Peach Lotus or Sunkissed Seduction
Eyes: Mthrshp Mega: Celestial Nirvana Palette in shade Nightfall
Brows: Mothership I: Subliminal Palette in shades Depth and Xtreme Black
Lips: Lust: Gloss in shade Nude Negliee

 


 

Tatler Asia
Above McGrath's pro-tip: Layer powder eye shadow with wet and dry textures to create a detailed, thin eyebrow. Using a dampened brush, create hair-like strokes with shades Ultimate Taupe, Depth or Xtreme Black from the Mothership I: Subliminal palette. Once the product has set, add dry hair strokes over the top.

PRODUCTS

Cheeks: Divine Blush: Legendary Glow Colour Balm in shade Divine Rose
Eyes: Mothership VI: Midnight Sun Palette in shades Blitz Violet Orchid and Xtreme Dusk, and Mothership I: Subliminal Palette in shade Ultimate Taupe
Brows: Mothership I: Subliminal Palette in shade Ultimate Taupe
Lips: Mothership VI: Midnight Sun Palette in shades Wicked Envy and Jubilee, and Lust: Gloss in shade Nude Negliee

 


 

Tatler Asia
Above McGrath's pro-tip: Stain the lips using MatteTrance Lipstick. To create a sheer stain, gently press the shade Guinevere onto the centre of the lips using a fingertip. Continue layering the colour onto the lips for more opacity and blend on the edges for a soft blurred effect. Finish with a layer of Lust: Gloss in Nude Negliee for a glass-like finish.

PRODUCTS

Cheeks: Divine Blush: Legendary Glow Colour Balm
Eyes: Mothership I: Subliminal Palette in shade Blitz Blue, Blitz Astral Quad: Nocturnal Nirvana in shade Blitz Aquamarine, and PermaGel Ultra Glide Eye Pencil in shade Blitz Blue
Brows: Mothership I: Subliminal Palette in shade Ultimate Taupe
Lips: MatteTrance Lipstick in shade Guinevere or McMenamy, and Lust: Gloss in shade Nude Negliee

 

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