Passionate executive chef Manjunath Mural is the driving force behind the modern Indian cuisine here. Lively presentation is a key part of the experience; dishes are served on plates that might be made of glass and look like a painter’s easel, or on hard plastic featuring ridges like the terrain of a hillside. The cooking is refined Indian, using the potli method (where spices are bound in a muslin bag) so that sauces don’t have the grainy remnants of spices and seeds commonplace in most Indian restaurants. The result might seem jarring to regular diners of Indian cuisine, but it means that sauces and marinades are smooth, almost like purées. Mural likes to balance flavours, so a spicy jumbo prawn might precede a tamer chicken dish, one whose aroma and taste bears little resemblance to the typical traditional Indian fare. Highlights include a soft Awadhi lamb with yoghurt sauce that’s moist with a delicate undercurrent of spice, and a creamy Alphonso mango kulfi that isn’t overly sweet. The exterior of the building recalls Singapore’s colonial heritage—a stately black-and-white with a garden setting that seems miles removed from the bustle of nearby Orchard Road. The interiors are a stark contrast, with a jumble of design and genres that are a little nouveau riche. The wine binder is certainly impressive, with a broad range of reasonably priced champagnes, reds and whites. Staff are attentive, warm and very buoyant, regularly checking to see how the meal is progressing. They’re knowledgeable on menu items and clear in their explanations of any dishes that might be unfamiliar.
• If you’re driving, think about booking an early time slot in order to snag one of the restaurant’s parking spots; if you can get a space, parking is free.