Dining at this family-favourite is a little like travelling back in time. Granted, its interiors could use an update, from the antiquated booth seats to its coloured screens, which are clear signs of the restaurant’s age. Thankfully, the one thing that doesn’t get old is the quality Szechuan and Cantonese fare this stalwart continues to dish out to delight fans and walk-in tourists alike. Many choose to start the meal with the classic hot and sour broth with crabmeat, and if you like it spicy like that, the dish of Chongqing fried diced chicken is as good as we remember. That it’s served as simply as those you’d find at a neighbourhood zi char stall— unadorned, on a plain white plate— doesn’t matter. The plump, bite-sized nuggets have just the right amount of that uniquely numbing heat from the use of peppercorns and loads of dried chilli. Other oldschool highlights that are prepared well include the stir-fried beef tenderloin—it’s cooked until nicely tender and tossed in a beautifully balanced black pepper sauce.