Like most traditional sushi restaurants, Shoukouwa doesn’t have any fanciful decoration or excess. The main dining room has a counter table that seats eight people, manned by two attentive staff and one sushi master who prepares the omakase and lunch menu. He lets the food speak for itself. A meal here starts with plump Hokkaido scallops smothered with a rich, nutty sesame paste, followed by a parade of nigiri featuring expertly sliced seafood that tastes like it’s just been caught from the ocean. In fact, everything tastes spectacular and doesn’t leave an unwanted fishy taste. The lightly seared, pinkish salmon; the deep-red tuna belly; and the lightly grilled fish amadai are slicked with soy sauce and served with freshly grated wasabi. There’s a break between courses in the form of vinegar-infused seaweed as a palate cleanser and a deep-fried crab meat croquette with the most tender, sweet filling. The meal ends with a simple sweet-and-tangy strawberry espuma. As you’d guess, the drinks list is dominated by sake, ranging from the most popular labels to limited edition, premium bottles.