Start the meal with a delicate swirl of tagliolini intertwined with subtly briny sea urchin, topped with caviar. The fragrance of semifreddo foie gras, imbued with lusciously thick fig vincotto, is matched by the citrus tang of golden- orange kumquat for a richly intense starter. A recommended main, the tender roasted pigeon, balanced by crisp nashi pear and pistachios, is elegantly dressed with aged Marsala jus. Complete the memorable meal with vivid pink strawberry cheesecake that’s accompanied by mascarpone and rhubarb. The wine list, predominantly Italian, also covers other old- world and new-world choices. Unobtrusive, friendly staff anticipate diners’ needs.