On her guided tours, guests get a taste of nostalgic Hong Kong-style dishes such as cart noodles and claypot rice, or visit establishments that are the remaining sentinels safeguarding a fading tradition. For example, there’s Kwan Kee Bamboo Noodle shop in Cheung Sha Wan, one of the only restaurants left in Hong Kong where noodles are still made with dough that is kneaded by someone sitting on the end of a bamboo pole and bouncing it over the dough.

“The trips are not just about food though, I also love sharing Hong Kong’s history with people through food,” says Virginia. “At our Kowloon City food tour, for example, we retell the history of the neighbourhood through the food from all the different ethnic communities in Hong Kong. My guests can try Thai salad, Hong Kong beef brisket, Chiu Chow noodles, Chinese Islamic beef sandwiches, and Indonesian skewers—all of which are embedded in [the city’s] culture.”

Paul Chan is another guide whose company, Walk in Hong Kong, which he co-founded in 2013, “gives tourists more choice”. And while food plays a role in Paul’s tours, it also casts a wider net.

“I realised that most tour operators take people to the touristy locations such as the Peak and Disneyland, but that hardly scratches the surface of what Hong Kong has to offer,” he says.

“We try to imbibe a sense of history and culture into our private and group tours. We take people to see Chinese letter presses in Sheung Wan, Hakka villages in New Territories, old-school architecture in Sham Shui Po. We try to curate these experiences in such a way that they can talk to the people and business owners in these places and hear their stories.”

Like Virginia, however, Paul also gives guests a taste of old-school Hong Kong, including dishes and snacks such as stinky tofu pudding and snake soup. “[Forget] expats or tourists, even locals don’t really eat that kind of food often now,” he says, adding that this has led to many such small local eateries to shut down, as they can’t compete with increasing rent and swankier restaurants.

There are still places in the city where more modest food vendors still have a place though, and one such location that’s still chock-a-block with these businesses is Chungking Mansions—but its perception in the local community as a disreputable destination means that many feel it’s unsafe to venture into its premises. Fortunately, a group of Hongkongers has stepped up to change this notion and to show people the hidden gems that can be found within its walls.

Led by Jeffrey Andrews, a manager at local NGO Christian Action, a Centre for Refugees—which has its offices in Chungking Mansions—they take guests down the labyrinthine corridors of the building, stopping by small shops to sample a variety of dishes from different cultures, such as Indian masala tea or Arabian dates.

Andrew’s tours highlight much more than food though. “I used to feel ashamed of telling people I work at Chungking Mansions,” he says whilst leading Tatler on a guided tour within the building. “But then I thought, why not showcase the diversity present here? That’s how we came up with this idea of small-group tours to Chungking Mansions. With inhabitants from all over the world setting up shops here, it’s really a microcosm of the diversity in Hong Kong.”

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Andrews is not wrong. Within this sprawling complex, there are myriad of stores with wares that are as varied as the people peddling them. From a booth selling Islamic prayer mats to a restaurant serving fusion Ghana food, there are hidden wonders at every turn inside Chungking Mansions.

“Once locals—and tourists—overcome their initial trepidation, they are utterly gobsmacked by the hospitality and the warmth of the shopkeepers, and of course they love getting to know about the culture and diversity as well. They enjoy the friendly atmosphere so much that many of them linger inside and buy knickknacks and treats even after the tour is officially over,” says Andrews, who takes 30 to 50 participants every week on these tours.

Fuelled by his guests’ enthusiasm, Andrews and his team also organise tours to Kowloon Mosque and the Islamic Centre, as well as to other religious sites that are usually only frequented by those who practise its faith. “Hong Kong is so much more than its skyscrapers and Lan Kwai Fong parties,” says Andrews. “These areas, be it Chungking Mansions or Sikh temple or Kowloon Mosque, are also a part of Hong Kong, and as the city’s residents, it’s our responsibility to ensure that these don’t get blotted out.”

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