We find out more about their techniques on the set of the brand's documentary on China and Mongolia’s cashmere goats and herder communities
Weather is destiny—this adage rings particularly true when you are traversing the steppes and deserts of Mongolia. These vast landscapes look primordial, but their captivating beauty belies a harsh climate. Temperatures can soar beyond 40°C in the summer, and plunge to -50°C during long, hard winters. Rainfall tends to be modest and snowfall is light, except when there is a dzud—the local term for an intense, devastating blizzard.
Mongolia’s centuries-old nomadic culture was shaped by these conditions. The lack of rain wasn’t conducive to farming. Instead, herders live in tune with nature, letting their animals graze in the cooler highlands during summer, then moving to low-lying areas in winter. This seasonal migration gives pastures time to regenerate, which is particularly important for those who own goats, voracious eaters who tend to pull grass up by the roots as they graze.
Having evolved to survive Mongolia’s extreme climate, the local capra hircus is exceedingly resilient. This goat species not only has a coarse outer fleece that shields them from the sun and rain, but also an exceptionally soft undercoat that insulates them against bitter cold. We know this fine fleece by another name—cashmere.
Cashmere is old-school luxury, literally. It derives its name from Kashmir, the region between India and Pakistan from which Roman emperors once obtained this prized fibre. Today, China and Mongolia are the world’s leading producers of cashmere, and Italian fashion house, Loro Piana, has been sourcing the finest cashmere fibres from Mongolia and the neighbouring Inner Mongolia (an autonomous region within China) since the 1980s.
To spotlight its long-standing quest for such exquisite fibres, and support for the communities and ecosystems that make the cultivation of these materials possible, the brand enlisted French film-maker Luc Jacquet to create a three-part documentary. The first instalment of this project focuses on cashmere. Titled Cashmere—The Origin of a Secret, it will premiere this month at MIFA 1862, an arts venue in Shanghai. Besides private screenings, it can also be viewed on Loro Piana’s website and social media channels.
Months earlier, a select group of journalists were invited to watch Jacquet’s shoot in progress. Which is how I found myself at a herder’s home in Inner Mongolia’s Tengger Desert one afternoon, watching the director and his crew film the herder as she combed cashmere fibres from the underbelly of a goat in sure, practiced strokes. It was the last day of filming for the cashmere-focused section of the documentary, and this exclusive behind‑the‑scenes peek capped a months-long shoot that spanned different parts of the region and various seasons of its extreme climate.
But on this day in the merry month of May—murmurings of a potential sandstorm notwithstanding—the weather was relatively mild, and sunshine gilded the herder’s thatched roof in a way that pleased Jacquet. Later that night, the crew celebrated with a bonfire at their base camp, the wrap party culminating with fireworks blooming over dark desert sands—a dream-like juxtaposition; a mirage inversed.