The nine-layer rainbow kueh lapis is often eaten in a few bites without a second thought, but the real Peranakan way to savour it is layer by layer, to signify a long life enjoyed moment by moment.

Little-known nuggets like this are what the owners of traditional Nonya rice dumplings and snacks maker Kim Choo Kueh Chang want to share with Singaporeans. Edmond Wong, the third-generation family member running the business—alongside his two elder brothers—that was started by their grandmother Lee Kim Choo in 1945, says that the company’s objective goes beyond producing quality Peranakan fare at its two main outlets in Joo Chiat Place and East Coast Road, as well as fashion and handicrafts at its boutique gallery.

Edmond, who manages Kim Choo’s property and tourism segments and is its corporate social responsibility (CSR) director, says, “When I was studying overseas, I was an active volunteer with non-governmental organisations. It became second nature for me to think of contributing back to the local community. When I joined the family business in 2009, I saw that there were few local small and medium enterprises that were doing so, I decided that Kim Choo would be one of them.”

Hence, the company’s CSR efforts focus on platforms where Singapore’s history and heritage can be shared and needy beneficiaries helped through sustainable means. 

“When we receive a donation request from a non-profit organisation, we would discuss long-term ways of working together. We don’t want to donate only cash and items—we also want to share our Peranakan culture,” says Edmond.

This year, in collaboration with Project We Care under the People’s Association (PA), Kim Choo provided free classes on Peranakan shoe beading for those from less privileged backgrounds who needed an additional source of income. Edmond’s eldest brother, Raymond, who is the fashion designer behind Kim Choo’s boutique gallery and teaches the shoe beading classes, was impressed by the skills of some of the participants. He plans to hire them as freelancers to complete his personal designs for the boutique.

“The beading culture is a very important part of our Peranakan heritage as it allows us to create works of art and culture that can be exhibited and also to be passed on to the next generation. With Project We Care, we share skills that can help people appreciate our beading culture, while helping them to defray their financial burden and earn an income.”

In another project, beneficiaries of the Cerebral Palsy Alliance Singapore were taught to make colourful kueh bangkit (coconut tapioca cookies) for sale, to raise funds for the association. On several occasions, volunteers and beneficiaries of the Yong-en Care Centre were hired to manage Kim Choo’s stalls at events, where 30 per cent of the earnings were donated back to the centre. Arts and education also feature strongly in Kim Choo’s CSR calendar. For the past three years, it has collaborated with local dance company Dance Ensemble Singapore to produce Peranakan-themed musicals with Edmond as the scriptwriter. 

Kim Choo’s guided tours and talks include hands-on sessions on Peranakan handicrafts, games or making rice dumplings. Companies and schools usually pay a fee, while non-profit organisations are not charged. Once a year, there is a free tour for participants from schools and community organisations that includes glimpses of native flora such as sea almond and mempat trees around the Joo Chiat area.

Edmond explains that the term Peranakan actually refers to “locally born descendants of foreigners”. It was only adopted in the late 19th century by Chinese communities who had settled in Southeast Asia to distinguish themselves from newer immigrants. This group then adopted local indigenous lifestyles while retaining their Chinese beliefs, resulting in a unique culture that married Malay and Chinese influences.

“So in reality, we all share a common Straits Settlement heritage, since most of our grandparents were immigrants,” says Edmond. This sense of shared heritage is the very thing that Kim Choo wants to preserve and pass on to Singapore’s future generations and even share with the global community through its business. 

With the retirement of Edmond’s grandmother and parents, the reins of the business are now fully in the hands of the Wong siblings, including second brother Desmond who oversees the factory production process. Youngest sister Gladys is a lawyer, and is likely to join the business in the future to manage its property arm, says Edmond. 

Any initial reservations about the sustainability of Kim Choo’s CSR programmes have since been replaced by strong support from the family for a business model that always finds ways to contribute back to society.

Edmond says, “We are not just a food business but a cultural business. We are here to stay for a long time because we want to ensure that more Singaporeans have a chance to appreciate our Peranakan culture.”