The most historic hotel in Paris has finally reopened, and we were among the first to spend the night at this modern-day icon
In the capital of haute couture and haute cuisine, there’s no dearth of luxury hotels for the discerning traveler to choose from. But the Hôtel de Crillon, now managed by Rosewood Hotels & Resorts, is one of only a dozen Paris properties to merit “Palace” standing (above a five-star rating), and a rare distinction few can match—a history of over 250 years.
Beginning with King Louis XV commissioning its majestic neoclassical façade in 1755, the hotel is intrinsically linked with milestone moments in Paris history: the 1778 French-American treaty recognising the Declaration of Independence was signed in its Salon des Aigles, and Marie Antoinette, who took piano lessons in the salon which now bears her name, was guillotined in the Place de la Concorde just outside its doors.
It became a luxury hotel in 1909, hosting countless celebrities and royalty before closing for extensive renovations in 2013. Four years later, the iconic Hôtel de Crillon has reopened with a new look and energy, thanks to over 150 designers and artisans (including Karl Lagerfeld), with an extraordinary attention to detail that celebrates French craftsmanship and savoir-faire.
While the hotel has preserved its historic legacy—both physically in the multiple architectural structures throughout the building that are protected by French conservation law, as well as symbolically in the names of suites and public spaces that are callbacks to the past—the bold, irreverent attitude it inhibits today is unmistakably modern.
“Conservation and transformation” was the key concept driving the four-year renovations, general manager Marc Raffray tells me. “We’re breaking the codes of what it means to be a Palace hotel in the 21st century.”
The result is a compelling blend of the impressive grandeur of an 18th century landmark, the impeccable service of a Palace hotel, and the cutting-edge approach of a hôtel particulier.
The most tell-tale sign that this icon of history has cemented its place in modern-day Paris? It’s already won over the locals, who come for a bite after shopping at nearby Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré or Place Vendôme, or for intimate business meetings over a drink at the stunning bar.
“We want our visitors from all over the world to feel Parisian,” Raffray says. Sure enough, a stay at the Hôtel de Crillon gives you a unique glimpse into the heart of Paris—one that beautifully combines the past, present, and future.
1. First Impressions
The approach to Hôtel de Crillon, located on the north side of the Place de la Concorde, immediately impresses. The hotel’s iconic French neoclassical façade is a registered landmark, and its imposing Corinthian colonnade and Coustou sculptures remain unchanged. After passing through the entrance flanked by multiple doormen, we’re whisked into a cosy sitting area for check-in (there are no archaic front-desk counters here); it’s the first of many signs that this is not a standard-issue luxury hotel.
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One of the most striking features of the property is how homely and inviting it feels: public spaces seamlessly transition from one mood to another and are decorated to the hilt with bespoke furniture, fresh flowers, interesting art pieces, coffee table tomes, and precious antiques. It's as if you’re walking through an elegant private mansion rather than a hotel.
Rather than being formal or stiff, the energy here is lively and charming, which is most noticeable in the staff. The hotel has done away with run-of-the-mill uniforms and instead created a wardrobe of 90 chic outfits designed by young French designer Hugo Matha—from lace skirts, silk blouses, and modern le smoking suit for the women, to dapper waistcoats, velvet blazers, cravats, and wide-brimmed fedoras for the men. It can catch you off guard, in a good way, when you’re politely greeted (oftentimes by name) by someone you had just assumed was a smartly-dressed guest.