The dishes coming out of the kitchen of Saint Pierre's new chef de cuisine,Paul Froggart, are vibrantly coloured like a carnival, and they are as lively in flavour as they are in looks. We appreciated his playfulness in the starter of pan-fried Wagyu striploin with anchovy infused mayonnaise, squid ink crisps and fresh anchovy salad - a platter of beautifully marbled striploin cubes topped with delicate frisée and a sliver of anchovy. The unexpected combination resulted in an addictive winner: the savoury, briny flavour of the anchovy cutting the richness of the Wagyu, and the mayonnaise marrying the two seamlessly with its persuasive creaminess. Almost every dish came with some miniature garnish - such as the micro chorizo bits and tiny apple cubes in the main dish of low-temperature glazed pork loin with terrine of Belgian endive. While such minute details are a pleasant surprise in most cases, they can sometimes be distracting, and the starter of soft boiled egg with pea puree, fricasée of escargot, bacon lardon, spearmint emulsion, almond oil and air-dried bacon dust was a circus of flavours. This, incidentally, is the dish Chef Froggatt had wanted to do for years, even while he was at San Marco. It is a combination of his favourite everyday European meals.

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