The food at his soon-to-open restaurant takes a bravely innovative look at the chef’s heritage
Having been treated to a preview of chef Rishi Naleendra’s new Cloudstreet, it is apparent that his erstwhile Cheek By Jowl was really a practice run. After four years of offering his brand of unique but, with the benefit of hindsight, safe modern-Australian fare at the latter—which, not to take away from its merits, earned him a Michelin star—Naleendra is baring his soul with this second act tucked away along Amoy Street.
The food is a synthesis of his experiences and heritage: modern European in foundation, filtered through Sri Lanka. This is evident from the moment the first amuse hits the table: A petite Coffin Bay oyster wrapped in wilted spinach, topped with pops of finger lime pulp, lightly draped in coconut milk and kissed with earthy betel leaf oil. It is a remarkably unique and unexpected combination—which is a strong statement given the countless inflections of fine cuisine available across the island.
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With this sense of his personal identity finally being written in his food, Naleendra has created a truly special brand of cuisine. There is turbot edged with the grassiness of curry and sweet-spicy fermented yellow pepper puree; a gleaming loaf of the most addictive bread that’s like the love child of a rye bun and banana bread, spiked with stout and glazed with sticky molasses; and ground pickled cashews snuck into a warmly flavoured New Zealand venison tartare.
“This is me,” said the soft-spoken Naleendra, who paced behind his open kitchen’s counter, belying his nervous energy. “When I started Cheek By Jowl, I didn’t want to put any Sri Lankan touches to my food; I went with modern Australian food because it was what I knew and what I felt people would accept. But now, I’m ready. I’m putting all of myself out there and, honestly, I’m nervous.”
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