In the vibrant Keong Saik district where new restaurants seem to be popping up in every corner, the newest kid on the block is French-Asian restaurant Meta. Short for metamorphosis to represent the constantly changing F&B scene, its kitchen is helmed by none other than chef Sun Kim, who earned his stripes working for celebrity chef Tetsuya Wakuda at Tetsuya’s Restaurant in Sydney and most recently, Waku Ghin in Singapore. 

With a brand new concept, he was given a clean slate to surprise diners; and he does this by offering five- and eight-course tasting dinner menus (with vegetarian options) that constantly change depending on the season. Currently, the restaurant is offering the winter special which sees ingredients such as oysters, wagyu beef and John Dory cooked using French techniques but showcasing his heritage with an Asian touch.  

^{Oyster with pomelo, lemon and ginger}

To begin the gastronomic journey, chef Kim teases the palate with a gigantic and meaty French oyster presented on a bed of stones. While most coveted for its briny taste, it’s given a different layer with the addition of pomelo sacs, lemon and ginger. Eat it all together and let all the flavours meld and explode in your mouth. 

A great introduction to his culinary expertise, he continues to delight with the amaebi with yuzu and apples. For this one, he plays around with the Japanese sweet shrimp by lightly torching it, even the head, which he recommends you eat at the end for a smoky finish. It’s plated beautifully together with dashi jelly, trout roe, pickled beetroot stems and carrot.    

^{Wagyu beef tartare with egg jelly and Korean pear kimchi}

The whole menu may seem dominated by seafood, but there are a few meat options as well. One is the cubed wagyu beef tartare which gets a lift from a bulgogi sauce and julienned pear seasoned with kimchi dressing. Another is the slow-cooked Tasmanian grass-fed beef, the most average dish of the lot; hence, is overshadowed by other dishes even with the addition of pickled oysters mushrooms, charred spring onions and parsnip puree. 

^{Citrus cheesecake with blood orange bon bon}

The last part of the menu is reserved for desserts, and the pastry chef responsible for this is Tammy Mah. Her interpretation of the classic cheesecake is presented in a golden ball consisting of different layers — citrus cheesecake and dark chocolate shell that hides the blood orange bon bon surprise. Dabbling in molecular gastronomy, she also whips up the white chocolate wasabi cream with sesame sponge and yoghurt.  

Complementing the tasting menus are the signature cocktails created by resident mixologist, Aloysius Chon. The tipples include Metamorphosis, which changes every few weeks, as well as the Whiter than Pale, a gin-based concoction that provides a refreshing end to your meal. (Photos courtesy of John Heng for chef's shot and Shaun Tan for the food images)

Meta | 9 Keong Saik Road, Singapore 089117 | 6513 0898