There’s more than a charming bromance to celebrate when top chefs Gaggan Anand and Daniel Chavez collaborate
Some chefs cook for praise, but we know the best cook to please. And it doesn’t take much to discern which of the two groups Gaggan Anand (of Gaggan in Bangkok, No. 7 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list and Asia’s Best Restaurant 2017) and Daniel Chavez of Ola Cocina Del Mar, a casual hotspot for inspired Spanish-Peruvian fare, belong to.
It is also easy to appreciate how quickly the two have bonded, after collaborating just four times in the last two years, starting with the first GGGOLA, a four-hands dinner and brunch in August 2015, that was followed by GGGOLA 2 the following year, which took place at Meatlicious in Bangkok.
“It was love at first sight,” Anand exclaims, when asked about the reasons behind their collaboration. All while Chavez blushes like a teenage boy.
The third edition, GGGOLA 3, sees Anand returning to the humble kitchen of Ola for a weekend culinary jam session, starting with a four-hands dinner on Saturday (July 29).
Diners here were treated to a rocking menu of signature pleasers spread across “five rounds”—each featuring four dishes—peppered with timely inclusions of truly intuitive dishes. From Anand’s signature “yoghurt explosion” to start, to Chavez’s re-imagined serving of the ceviche (via a cevichito y lechita), to a beautifully simple pork vindaloo. Of course, it takes two to come up with the pollo a la brasa—a serving of tender roast chicken served over quinoa and a Peruvian black bean sauce, piqued with curry leaves and a gentle, surprise hit of banana.
It just goes to show how comfortable these toques are with each other. In spite of Anand’s infectious sense of humour, marked by an affinity for a well-timed facetious remark over the straight fact. “I would rather cook with a guy who has a humble heart than one with a bigger name,” Anand tells us. “I’m already successful in what I’m doing, he is already successful in what he’s doing. We are both seasoned chefs, not kids.
“You won't find us both drunk at a party abusing other chefs; you’ll find us at a rock show (concert) … smashed,” he quips.
What was your first impression of his food?
Gaggan Anand (GA) Completely crap. Like it was the worst food ever … it was so bad, it made me cook with him! I don’t know what’s wrong with Singapore, why they have chefs like him.
Daniel Chavez (DC) I appreciate the honesty. Honesty is what this industry needs.
GA But, honestly, the most important thing is that he cooks food that we have lost. The problem is that we are getting superficial with food, we are not honest with the food. His kitchen still uses fire; it still has cooking that is simple, humble and you will come back every week to eat here.
DC I ate at Gaggan for the first time after we were finished with the promotion at Meatlicious. It was crazy and amazing. I’ve tried some of his food when we cook here, but I think it’s different when you have it at Gaggan. When you add something that I think few restaurants can generate, which is a good energy … I enjoyed the food a lot but I’ve never been to a restaurant when I, for four hours straight, didn’t stop laughing. Most fine dining restaurants are stiff and boring, and you don’t feel comfortable.
