Modelled after a traditional Kyoto teahouse, this intimate 30-seater glows with the restrained beauty of the Japanese wabi-sabi aesthetic, one that prizes natural elements and simplicity over all else. The dining counter is made of fragrant hiba (a Japanese cypress), while designer chairs hewn from Hiroshima beech mould themselves comfortingly around the body. Here, guests can watch Chef Kenjiro Hashida work his magic on seasonal produce, omakase-style.

With fresh ingredients flown in four times a week from Tokyo, the menu shifts with every turn of the tide. What remains consistent is Hashida’s exacting approach to Edo-era sushi and to coaxing out latent flavours in premium ingredients. An artist himself, Hashida imparts a tactile sensibility to his craft, nimbly balancing texture, colour and taste in each dish.

During our visit, he plied us with a starter plate that included pristine firefly squid, bamboo shoots coated with sesame paste, and poached octopus. A silky chawanmushi yielded the smoky surprise of fugu roe, while a strip of yuzu lent its distinct fragrance to a clear scallop ball soup. The divine contrast of salty ikura and sweet, milky uni was underscored by a petite bowl of premium Akitakomachi rice – a gorgeous exercise in purity of flavours.

You’ll do well to pair these dishes with their cellar of artisanal sakes; ask Hashida-san for recommendations and he’ll be glad to oblige.

#02-37 Mandarin Gallery, 333A Orchard Road. Tel: 6733 2114