Executive chef Noriyuki Hamada of Hoshinoya Tokyo talks us through the making of his fish-only kaiseki that's delicate and delicious at the same time.
A visit to Tokyo is likely to involve a delicious meal of fish, whether it's a breakfast bowl of chirashi after witnessing the tuna auction at Tsukiji market (catch the original location before it moves to Toyosu in October) or a traditional sushi dinner at Sushi Saito, Sukibayashi Jiro or one of the other stalwarts. If you're already well-versed with the infinite preperations of fish that one encounters in Japan, a visit to Hoshinoya Tokyo's restaurant will still manage to surprise you.
Transforming Japanese ingredients with French techniques while thinking outside the box, executive chef Noriyuki Hamada changes your perception of how a meal of fish is prepared and enjoyed. One of Japan's most talented chefs—he bagged the bronze Bocuse d’Or, an internationally-acclaimed competition—chef Hamada deftly pushes the envelope while still injecting tradition to come up with his signature fish-centric kaiseki offering at Hoshinoya Tokyo. Fascinated by fish "destined for the garbage", as well as an avid forager, he shares how he comes up with one of the most creative and intriguing kaiseki dinners to come our way.
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Why is kaiseki important to you and what would you like others to take from this dining experience?
Noriyuki Hamada (NH) The spirit behind kaiseki is very important. A long time ago, back when food was scarce, monks put hot stones into the inner part of their kimono to warm their stomachs and repress their hunger, which is where the word “kaiseki” derives from. I strongly feel that these old traditions and the thoughts behind them are extremely important.
When I was thinking of a dish that would maintain the spirit behind kaiseki, whilst being understood in today’s modern world, the ‘Five Flavours of Delight’ dish was born. This dish represents five meticulously designed items representing the five flavours (sour, sweet, bitter, salty, and umami), which are each placed on stones individually heated to ideal serving temperatures.