Preserving the legacy of Thai food and culture while supporting farmers was the motivation behind Samrub Samrub Thai, run by husband-and-wife duo Prin Polsuk and Thanyaporn “Mint” Jarukittikun. Polsuk, a hospitality veteran, cut his teeth at Sala Rim Naam at the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok before being scouted by renowned Australian chef David Thompson to help open Nahm in London, which became the first Thai restaurant to win a Michelin star. From Thompson, who is godfather to his son, Polsuk also learned how to cook with soul.

He brings this element to Samrub Samrub Thai, which roughly translates as “family meals for Thai people.” The concept was manifested as a series of pop-ups while Polsuk held another full-time position, before taking over a 25-seat space last year. Dishes are made to be shared by guests sitting at a chef’s counter and are “not from one region but from everywhere, from old and new cookbooks, from the countryside, from grandma and grandpa’s secret recipes, and my own ideas”, he says.

Past menus have included puffed rice with coconut cream dressing and crab meat, grilled beef with ancient southern curry and pickled asparagus fruit, and steamed corn with marinated chicken. The latter is a labour-intensive, reconstructed delight of young baby corn wrapped with minced chicken marinated in fish sauce and dry spices, then sheathed in corn again so it looks like a whole cob.

In between running the restaurant, the couple try to visit every province, seeking out village markets, suppliers, farmers and producers. Polsuk is also keen to pass on his knowledge and skills to the next generation of chefs, saying: “I email my staff recipes, and don’t care if they resign and open their own restaurant and use them.” Jarukittikun chimes in: “Samrub Samrub Thai is an educative, intimate, fun experience. People come because they want to learn about Thai food, see the chefs and talk about ingredients. Everyone likes to sit in front of the crew and get the heat, the smell, even the smoke from the stoves.” She says that guests and the team will often share drinks, leading to a convivial atmosphere that’s more like home than a formal eatery.

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For that, head to Sorn, a fine-dining destination within an immaculately restored old mansion surrounded by lush gardens in the city’s Sukhumvit district. Chefs cook up a storm in a glass-walled kitchen while a fleet of smartly dressed staff tend to guests seated in a warren of semi-private rooms.   

Chef patron Supaksorn Jongsiri, aka Ice, turns out fiery Southern Thai fare that doesn’t compromise on the chilli at one of the hottest tables in town, literally and figuratively, with two Michelin stars and a number nine ranking on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 list. Those fortunate enough to score a booking are treated to a fast-paced progression of 20-plus courses that will likely include the signature blue swimmer crab leg smothered in crab roe and served in a mini mortar with yellow chilli dipping paste, as well as a medley of curries and relishes served with rice cooked by charcoal in a clay pot.

Like his fellow chefs, Jongsiri wants to highlight “real Thai cooking techniques and traditional methods, and how to eat Thai food correctly and enjoy our culinary culture”. Here, as elsewhere, ingredients are seasonal and sourced from all over Thailand or, in Sorn’s case, from the country’s south, with produce artfully presented and explained with each dish. It’s this passion for showcasing Thailand’s diverse culinary treasures in new ways that unites this crop of Bangkok’s best restaurants and makes the city one of the most exciting places to dine not just in Asia, but globally.

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