Cover Cacao beans used in To'ak chocolate

We sample some of these luxury dark chocolates that are made from the oldest and rarest cacao variety on earth to find out

It's hard not to love chocolate. The velvety texture and sweet flavour, not to mention the nutritional benefits or happiness that comes with eating it, are but some of the reasons to indulge in this decadent treat, but what if the chocolate costs as much as dinner at a fine dining restaurant? To'ak makes luxury chocolate from the world’s rarest and most prized cacao variety, the Ecuadorian Nacional, which results in limited edition bars of single-origin dark chocolate—the most expensive of which is priced at US$490 (HK$3,895) for 50g.

We spoke to To'ak's CEO James Le Compte to find out how a rainforest conservation project in Ecuador turned into one of the world's most expensive chocolate brands, why it costs so much and what it tastes like.

See also: The best chocolate producers in Asia

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Above At the cacao farm (from left: James Le Compte and Carl Schweizer)

What is To’ak Chocolate?
To'ak makes extremely limited editions of single-origin Ecuadorian dark chocolate [Origin Bars are typically limited to only 150 bars per edition; Signature Bars are typically limited to 1,000 per edition] and is celebrated for its cask-aged editions, unique emphasis on specific harvest seasons, and elegant packaging and design. We also pay farmers the highest cacao prices in the continent and are leading the movement in nursing an ancient cacao variety back from the brink of extinction. 

The rare Ecuadorian cacao variety called Nacional traces its genetic lineage back at least 5,300 years, but in 1916, an outbreak of Witches’ Broom disease destroyed it. By the dawn of the 21st century, this famed variety was believed to be extinct.

So, how did it all start?
To’ak was born from a rainforest conservation project that co-founder Jerry Toth started in Ecuador in 2007. Through his nonprofit organisation Third Millennium Alliance (TMA), he helped create the Jama-Coaque Ecological Reserve, which currently protects over 1,500 acres of coastal rainforest in Ecuador. It was here that he began cultivating cacao trees and making chocolate in a thatched bamboo house in the middle of the forest.

The house was totally off-the-grid and didn’t have electricity, so initially the entire process was done by hand. He roasted the cacao beans in a big iron pot over a wood fire and then dehusked the beans, one by one. Jerry then used an old hand grinder to manually grind the beans. The unforgettably powerful aroma that wafted from that grinder was his first cue that Ecuadorian cacao was unlike any other.

After years of honing his passion, Jerry linked up with the other co-founders, Carl Schweizer, an Austrian design specialist, and Dennise Valencia who was born and raised in the capital city of Quito and a member of Ecuador’s economic solidarity movement. Later, they were joined by a fourth-generation Ecuadorian cacao farmer, Servio Pachard and myself. Together, our mission was to radically change the way the world experiences dark chocolate.

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Above To'ak farmers on the cacao farm
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Above Cutting into cacao beans

What makes To’ak different from other artisanal chocolates on the market?
The very finest wines allow us the privilege of tasting the valley in which the grape was grown. To’ak offers connoisseurs of dark chocolate the same opportunity—to taste not only the land but also the characteristics of the particular year in which it was harvested.

To’ak also developed the world’s first long-term chocolate ageing program. The flavour and aroma of our cask- and specialty-aged chocolates evolve slowly with time. We age chocolate in casks as diverse as Cognac, Whisky, Bourbon, Sherry, Tequila, Port and Sauternes, as well as aromatic Ecuadorian wood and other ingredients that are selected for their extractable aroma compounds.

Why does the Master Series Enriquestuardo chocolate cost US$490 (HK$3,895)?
As the “guardians” of Ancient Nacional cacao, we strive to protect and respect its legacy. In collaboration with Enriquestuardo [an esteemed Ecuadorian artist], we created this rare edition of chocolate to connect with Ecuador’s ancient traditions while celebrating a treasure that transcends time. 

Our 78% Duality Blend has matured for eight years, which draws out a delicate yet complex flavour profile of buttery caramel, plum honey, and cashew.

The chocolate is then enclosed in a wooden box made of sustainably sourced Spanish Elm wood. It is also paired with Enriquestuardo’s original artwork, part of a limited series of 500 units. His piece, Guardianes, was inspired by the mythical drawings, shapes, and artefacts of Ecuador’s ancient cultures. Enriquestuardo etched his design into a metal plate, mixed his own ink, and printed the etching at an old press in Quito. He then added fine details of gold leaf by hand to each print.

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Above To'ak Enriquestuardo Guardianes Masters Series
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Above Enriquestuardo’s original artwork etched in Guardianes

Which To’ak chocolate has been the most popular?
Our 18 Mini Bar selection (Harvest & Aged) [which is made with only cacao beans and cane sugar] is definitely our most popular as they offer chocolate enthusiasts the opportunity to try a selection of six different To’ak chocolates from the two different styles.

Do you have a favourite To’ak chocolate?
It all depends on the mood or occasion. If I’m feeling light-hearted then I’ll reach for one of our newest additions from the Alchemy collection—Caramelized Pop Amaranth or Galápagos Orange & Salt. When I’m looking to indulge in my dark chocolate craving I’ll enjoy our Rain Harvest 2018 (100% Cacao) bars. And for a special occasion, I’ll crack open a chocolate that has been aged for eight years in a Single Malt Islay Whisky Cask.

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Above To'ak chocolate tasting kit with the Mini Bar Selection
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Above The kit comes with tasting plates, bamboo utensils and a written guide

For the uninitiated, how should we be tasting To’ak chocolate?
To start your tasting journey, bring your attention to the chocolate and your own sensory awareness. All five senses will be called into action.

  1. Inspect the colour and sheen of the chocolate bar. White splotches (called bloom) indicate that the chocolate has suffered temperature damage. When this happens, the chocolate is still edible, but the nuances will be compromised.
  2. Break off a piece of the chocolate and listen to the snap. A fairly loud snap usually indicates that the bar was properly tempered. It’s also an indicator that the bar is not too warm for tasting; a warm chocolate bar won’t snap.
  3. Bring a piece of chocolate near your nose and explore the aroma—as you would with a glass of wine. Start by assessing the intensity and then look for primary characteristics such as fruity, floral, earthy, nutty, spicy, or “chocolatey”.
  4. Now move the piece of chocolate into your mouth. Don’t chew! Rather, use your teeth to break the chocolate into a few smaller pieces, and then let it melt. As it melts, move it around inside your mouth to maximise exposure to your taste buds.
  5. Take note of the texture. Maybe it’s smooth and silky, or maybe it’s a bit granular. Observe how it melts (quickly or slowly) and its consistency (thin, thick, pasty, or buttery).
  6. Try to identify the primary flavour characteristics (fruity, floral, nutty etc.) and then you can try picking out more specific notes, such as raisin, fig, orange blossom, hazelnut, honey, tobacco, and caramel… the list is endless. But don't worry too much about putting words to it—let the sensory impressions wash over you.
  7. Pay attention to how the flavour evolves. Complex chocolate will unfold like a movie inside your mouth, with a cast of different characters and a developing plot line.
  8. Last, but not least, observe the finish. Does the flavour sensation disappear shortly after the chocolate melts, or does it linger? What are the final sensations? How do you feel in the afterglow?

Now that you have properly tasted dark chocolate on its own, you can take it one step further. If you enjoy wine and spirits or cheese, the next level is to explore pairings.

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Photo 1 of 6 Amazonian Ants chocolate
Photo 2 of 6 Dark chocolate, lemon ants, cacao butter
Photo 3 of 6 Galápagos Orange & Salt chocolate
Photo 4 of 6 Dark chocolate, candied Galapagos orange, Galapagos sea salt,cacao butter
Photo 5 of 6 Andean Mints chocolate
Photo 6 of 6 Dark chocolate, cacao butter, four different mints

Our Tasting Notes

We tried the 18 Mini Bars Harvest & Aged selection (US$65/HK$518) which includes a variety of chocolates that showcase how climate and growing conditions can affect the flavour of the cocoa beans, and how ageing chocolate in wooden barrels or with spice, much like a spirit, can also influence the flavour. The result is an eye-opening experience for chocolate connoisseurs. From sweet and deep chocolate notes that dissolve in the mouth to reveal delicate tannins and hints of bitterness, this is chocolate that deserves a slow and leisurely tasting. 

The Alchemy collection (US$16/HK$128 each) is an assortment of eight editions that blend dark chocolate (65% heirloom cacao, 35% cane sugar) with different ingredients and flavours, but also aim to shine a light on the art (created by young artists in the region) and nature of ancient traditions including the Amazon rainforest, Andes mountains, Pacific coast, and Galapagos Islands. We tried the Amazonian Ants, a slightly granular and earthy chocolate with a hint of citronella; Galápagos Orange & Salt with bright citrus and pleasing savoury notes; and my personal favourite: Andean Mints chocolate. Each bar contains one type of Andean mint: sunfo, yerba buena, Ecuadorian tipo, and Peruvian muña mint, offering four distinct experiences. The tipo, in particular, reveals a pure and natural mint flavour that lingers on the tongue.

While To'ak is known for being the most expensive chocolate in the world, the brand does have other options that come with more palatable prices to sample. Regardless of price, it is clear that To'ak chocolates are on another level, a level that makes every chocolate tasting an occasion to savour.

Visit toakchocolate.com for more information on the chocolate

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