Cover Photo: David Lebovitz/Vasun

Masterchef France winner Khanh-Ly Huynh and Singaporean foodie Pearlyn Lee are putting the Little Red Dot on the culinary map in Europe

In the middle of the bustling 11th arrondissement in Paris lies The Hood, an Asian canteen and café where the intoxicating aroma of Hainanese chicken rice, satay, and otak-otak wafts through the air, transporting diners to the vibrant streets of Singapore. At the helm are Pearlyn Lee, a Singaporean and finance professional who manages the business, and Masterchef France winner Khanh-Ly Huynh, who kickstarted this passion project in 2016 by combining Singaporean flavours and Vietnamese influences for the French palate—all while utilising French local produce. 

Now, Lee and Huynh are poised to elevate Singaporean cuisine to greater heights with their latest venture, a pop-up restaurant called Chope Chope, a name which is not only derived from Singlish but also carries a similar meaning in French. In Singapore, “chope” means to reserve something or someplace for oneself, while in France, the verb “choper” refers to the act of snatching or grabbing.

The limited-time event consists of a series of four collaborative pop-up sessions, spanning from April to November 2023. Each session—lasting five to six days at The Hood—aims to immerse Parisians in Singapore’s rich food heritage and hawker culture. 

The first two sessions in April and May successfully brought in modern Singaporean izakaya Kongsee’s mini Roxy crab laksa, and South Indian-inspired dishes such as biryani prepared by Masterchef Singapore top 10 contestant chef Vasunthara Ramasamy. Up next is Jeffrey Chia of Peranakan private-dining concept Nonyabong, who’ll be helming The Hood’s kitchen from September 21 to 25 to introduce his Peranakan heritage to diners through his mother’s recipes.  

We speak to Lee and Huynh to find out more about Chope Chope, and Singapore cuisine's chance to shine in one of the world's most important and historical gastronomic hubs.

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Tatler Asia
Chef and co-founder Khanh-Ly Huynh at the Nonette pop-up in Tiong Bahru Bakery, Singapore
Above Chef and co-founder Khanh-Ly Huynh at the Nonette pop-up in Tiong Bahru Bakery, Singapore
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Chef Jeffrey Chia of Peranakan fine-dining concept Nonyabong in Singapore
Above Chef Jeffrey Chia of Peranakan fine-dining concept Nonyabong in Singapore

Let’s start from the beginning. How did the idea of Chope Chope come about?
Khanh-Ly Huynh (KH): The inception of Chope Chope can be traced back to a significant moment in Singapore, during banh mi joint Nonette’s collaboration with Tiong Bahru Bakery last year. During this collaboration, Jeremy Nguee (business director at gourmet catering company Preparazzi) brought together Pearlyn and myself, two Masterchef participants from London and Singapore, over a delightful meal of prawn noodles at Tekka Market. Our conversation gravitated toward two central themes: the undervaluation of Asian cuisine on the global stage and the underappreciation of the effort poured into it. This sentiment emerged from the fact that opportunities for sharing Asian flavours beyond the region are scarce, and Singaporean chefs often lack international exposure.

Pearlyn Lee (PL): It was during this exchange that the concept of Chope Chope took root. Our conversation with chef Jeffrey Chia, known as “Uncle Jeff”, of Peranakan fine-dining concept Nonyabong in Singapore, further solidified our commitment to the idea. We recognised that Singaporean chefs serve as compelling ambassadors of the nation’s culinary heritage. The emergence of a new generation continuing the legacy of heritage hawker food was a story waiting to be told on a broader stage—one that extended beyond those who had visited Singapore. We promised him that we would organise a pop-up event in Paris, the culinary capital of the world, where he could showcase his mother’s recipes, heritage, and the exquisite Peranakan cuisine.

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Spread of dishes that was served at Chope Chope’s first event featuring the Kongsee, a modern Singaporean izakaya
Above A spread of dishes that was served at Chope Chope’s first event featuring the Kongsee, a modern Singaporean izakaya
Tatler Asia
Masterchef Singapore season two top 10 contestant Vasunthara Ramasamy pictured with chef-author David Lebovitz at Chope Chope’s second event, creating South Indian inspired dishes
Above Masterchef Singapore season two top 10 contestant Vasunthara Ramasamy pictured with chef-author David Lebovitz at Chope Chope’s second event, where she created South Indian-inspired dishes

Why Singaporean food in Paris? What makes Paris special?
KH: Paris holds a revered status for its gastronomic legacy, encompassing diverse cuisines and exceptional ingredients. Notably, Singapore hawker culture earned its rightful place on the Unesco representative list of intangible cultural heritage in 2020, in this very city. Moreover, Paris serves as a strategic entry point into the European market, offering a unique blend of tradition and innovation that seamlessly accommodates the introduction of new heritage cuisines.

PL: The Hood has gradually emerged as a sought-after destination for Asian culinary experiences, particularly in recent years. Our establishment has garnered a reputation for being a hub of Singaporean-inspired brunches and dinners, catering to both local and international food enthusiasts. Dishes like chicken rice, pandan kaya, and nasi lemak have found a devoted audience here. With our history of hosting diverse pop-ups, The Hood stands as an ideal setting to acquaint Europe with the rich tapestry of Singaporean flavours.

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Otah otah to be featured in the third Chope Chope event in mid-September, where chef Jeffrey Chia introduces Peranakan food to Parisians
Above Otak-otak will be featured in the third Chope Chope event in mid-September, when chef Jeffrey Chia introduces Peranakan food to Parisians (Photo: sgfoodonfoot)

How do you decide which Singaporean chefs to invite and what dishes to serve at Chope Chope?
KH: The essence of Chope Chope lies in its representation of the diverse facets of Singaporean cuisine rather than aiming for a singular “best” representation. We invite chefs who embody a spirit of innovation, adaptability to French local produce, and a deep-rooted connection to their culinary heritage. In our inaugural Chope Chope event, we embraced the concept of “Mod-Sin” cuisine, spearheaded by modern Singaporean izakaya The Kongsee’s head chef, Frankie Le. They shared their “Krapow Prata Pizza”, an ingenious blend of Thai, Indian, and Italian influences–a testament to the dynamic fusion of flavours that define Singaporean cuisine.

What are the challenges so far with Chope Chope and how do you plan to overcome them?
KH: The biggest challenge is defining Singaporean cuisine to our diners. Most Parisians don’t have a clear understanding of Singapore, let alone its cuisine. But it can also be seen as an opportunity. It’s up to us to define a distinct identity from scratch and provide the historical context of the dishes to diners. We’re essentially opening a new door in the Parisian market, and putting light on Singapore culture when there’s not much out there yet. Slowly and surely, more people will be acquainted with Singapore’s diverse culinary identity, especially through Chope Chope. 

PL: Another challenge has been the limited coverage from local press outlets. While cuisines like Japanese sushi or Korean bibimbap have a more established presence, Singaporean cuisine is yet to command the same level of recognition and appeal among readers. For example, we want our Hainanese chicken rice to be seen as more than “just another rice dish”. To overcome this, we are actively working to garner increased international media attention. By shining a spotlight on Chope Chope, we aim to pique the interest of both locals and tourists, fostering a growing curiosity and engagement with our event.

What should we look forward to for the next two pop-ups in mid-September and mid-November?
PL: We can expect to see Singapore’s Peranakan food heritage, and the event finale celebrates hawker food fare. From September 21 to 25, chef Jeffrey Chia of Peranakan private-dining concept Nonyabong will be introducing his Peranakan heritage through his mother’s recipes.  Known affectionately as “Uncle Jeff”, he will bring much-loved Peranakan flavours in his kueh pie tee, otah otah and ayam buah keluah to Paris. 

From November 16 to 20, we are thrilled to welcome two distinguished figures in the Singaporean culinary scene. Renowned television personality and founder of Makansutra Gluttons Bay, “KF Seetoh” Seetoh Kok Fye, will collaborate with fellow urban hawker Chan Yau Chong. Together, they will be championing Singaporean hawker food, while utilising the freshest local seafood offerings in France.

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Singaporean food critic, author and television personality Seetoh Kok Fye, known as “KF Seetoh”
Above Singaporean food critic, author and television personality Seetoh Kok Fye, known as “KF Seetoh”
Tatler Asia
Hawker-entrepreneur Chan Yau Chong will be joining hands with Seetoh Kok Fye to cook up “urban hawker” food for the mid-November Chope Chope event
Above Hawker-entrepreneur Chan Yau Chong will be joining hands with Seetoh Kok Fye to cook up “urban hawker” food for the mid-November Chope Chope event

What do you hope to achieve with Chope Chope?
PL: Chope Chope is a platform that aims to empower Asian chefs, giving them a resonant voice and exposure. By showcasing their culinary expertise, we wish to inspire a ripple effect that encourages the exploration and sharing of culinary heritage on a global scale.

KH: Ultimately, our aspiration with Chope Chope extends beyond the realm of food. We envision this event as a catalyst for breaking down stereotypes associated with Asian cuisine. Our aim is to challenge the European perception that Asian food is merely cheap or lacks skill and diversity. In doing so, we hope to not only create an impact among Asians but also resonate with other minority groups in Paris, to encourage others to be proud of their own cultural heritage.

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