Oranges in baskets (Photo: Getty Images)
Cover Oranges in baskets (Photo: Getty Images)

Discover the food-forward traditions of Chap Goh Meh

Observed on the 15th day of Chinese New Year, especially by the Hokkien community, Chap Goh Meh denotes the end of the festive season. The defining celebrations of the Lunar New Year’s conclusion are steeped in history, preserving time-honoured practices in Chinese folklore and spirituality. Despite being touted as the Valentine’s Day of Asia, the festivity is deeply rooted in all forms of connection.

Paying tribute to familial bonds, interpersonal relationships, and romance, many Chap Goh Meh traditions are tied together by one thing—food. As Chap Goh Meh falls on the fast approaching February 24, we’re looking at some of the culinary rituals underpinning the holiday.

Read more: A guide to the best dim sum spots in Malaysia
 

Pengat

Pengat or pungat is a festive mainstay of the Peranakan and Baba Nyonya communities. The sweet dish is the antecedent of the readily available bubur cha cha, most commonly eaten in Penang. The traditional Malay dish adopted by other cultures sees fruits and starchy root vegetables stewed until tender in a broth of coconut milk and gula Melaka. Contemporary renditions utilise white sugar as a sweetener, incorporating ingredients like jelly, black-eyed beans, and sago. 

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Pisang raja or king bananas (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Pisang raja or king bananas (Photo: Getty Images)
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Pengat with bananas (Photo: Instagram / @xiilaaa)
Above Pengat with bananas (Photo: Instagram / @xiilaaa)

The distinction between bubur cha cha and pengat lies in the inclusion of banana and a specific type of banana, at that. Planted in backyard plots, pisang raja is smaller, tarter, and firmer than more common varieties. Pisang Raja balances pengat’s coyly syrupy character and velvety texture.

Pengat keladi is the dish’s most common manifestation, chocked full of bananas, sweet potatoes, and yams, while pengat labu, featuring pumpkin, is a lesser known but still beloved iteration. Families will typically begin Chap Goh Meh with a breakfast of pengat before offering thanks and prayers of good fortune to deities and ancestors. While also eaten for dessert, the dish is the heart of breakfast tables, bringing families together to mark the end of festive reunions.

Oranges

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Floating oranges (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Floating oranges (Photo: Getty Images)

In hopes oceanic currents will transplant conventional matchmakers, Chap Goh Meh’s most notorious tradition involves contact details being transcribed onto the rinds of mandarin oranges and being hurled into bodies of water, eventually floating into the hands of a suitable match. Symbolic of luck and auspiciousness, mandarin oranges were co-opted by the young women of Penang in the early 19th century as vessels of welcoming love. 

The holiday has historically honoured the spirit of togetherness, including romantic courtship. Ancient times forbade marriageable women from fraternising with men except on the last day of the Lunar New Year, making Chap Goh Meh ideal for matchmaking. 

Continuing into present day, contemporary celebrations have seen convoys of floating oranges marked with social media handles.

See also: Lunar New Year foods from around the world
 

Tang yuan

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Black sesame tang yuan (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Black sesame tang yuan (Photo: Getty Images)
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Rainbow tang yuan (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Rainbow tang yuan (Photo: Getty Images)

Symbolic of cohesion within family units, tang yuan is one of the most commonly eaten dishes during Chap Goh Meh. Glutinous rice balls with centres of black sesame, red bean or peanut fillings swimming in sweet soup have also been said to reflect the holiday’s full moon.

The dessert’s inherent warmth from ginger-infused syrup is attributed to the Han Dynasty, in which families were encouraged to offer tang yuan to the God of fire. Southern regions of China are home to savoury versions, with inclusions of meat and vegetables.

Chap Goh Mei dinners

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Photo 1 of 3 Salmon yee sang (Photo: Getty Images)
Photo 2 of 3 Nian gao (Photo: Getty Images)
Photo 3 of 3 Steamed fish (Photo: Getty Images)

In the spirit of honouring togetherness, families that live together often close out the season with a celebratory dinner. Traditional Chinese New Year plates grace communal dining tables, physicalising auspiciousness and prosperity for the year ahead. Families give yee sang one last hurrah on Chap Goh Meh, during the year’s final reunion dinner. Prosperous plates associated with the Lunar New Year, from nian gao to steamed fish make appearances at these festive meals. 

Doubling down on the holiday’s reputation for romance, couples celebrate the occasion with meals designed to feed two, whether it be in the comfort of their homes or at a restaurant. 

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