Veteran steward of Singapore’s heritage recipes Damian D’Silva has also taken this opportunity to feature fast-disappearing Malay classics from his childhood
Few things are as satisfying as the opportunity to savour a favourite dish from the past and in particular, Singapore heritage dishes that getting harder to find. That is why a visit to restaurant Kin is like coming home for dinner—even for those dining on the likes of the daging sambal hijau or the cuttlefish kangkong for the first time, such comforting fare done well is hard to beat. The former is one of several dishes that chef Damian D’Silva’s Eurasian grandfather—a exceptional cook himself—used to make often, and which now make up what is best described as a treasured menu of heirloom recipes cooked with time-honoured methods and authentic local ingredients.
Following a recipe that is over 100 years old, the dish features thinly sliced beef that is first marinated for more than 24 hours with a aromatic blend of cumin, coriander and fennel, then stir-fried with a green chilli sambal and a good hit of lime juice for delectably piquant finish.
The latter is a vanishing hawker dish that was well-loved by his father; a medley of cuttlefish, kangkong, beautifully sweet pineapple and crisp deep-fried dough fritters doused in a familiar sauce made with fermented shrimp paste, plum sauce and calamansi.
“Singaporeans haven’t lost their identity per se; but rather we’ve forgotten who we are,” laments D’Silva, whose expertise in recreating forgotten dishes that made up Singapore’s budding culinary culture the 1960s has earned him the title of “grandfather of local heritage cuisine”.
(Related: Singaporean Chef Damian D’Silva Ups His Game With New Restaurant Kin at Straits Clan)