Marking a new chapter for the restaurant, this ode to time and its effects is also an opportune showcase of Chef Arévalo’s flair for uniquely flavourful amalgamations
A year has passed since chef-owner Fernando Arévalo’s first solo adventure, Preludio, debuted with its defiantly progressive approach to creating memorable dining experiences, via a changing and visually intriguing menu of monochrome-themed dishes and wines. In contrast, the second chapter that was revealed only a few weeks ago—and which essentially defines the direction of the food and drinks menus over the next four seasons—embraces a wider range of inspirations.
There are undoubtedly many ways to illustrate the idea of “time”, be it an ode to a memory of a dish or the lineage of a key ingredient, or simply the length of time it takes to prime an ingredient, by ageing or fermenting it. The challenge it appears lies in expressing these creatively and with dishes that are not only delicious but also tell a unique story. “We [had decided to work with] chapters because constant change for us helps encourage creativity, improvements and growth,” Arévalo explains, pointing out that the difficulties are not with the individual theme. He adds that the aim of changing everything from the cuisine to the wines and the decor, not to mention the timely changes to reflect the seasons, is to push the team beyond its boundaries.
It remains an audacious undertaking but the dishes for this chapter, while distinctive, are less provocative and more approachable. The team seems to have chosen a more playful and sometimes wistful approach. The former is immediately evident in the five petit appetisers, presented in a platter aptly dubbed the Time Machine. The oyster dish, for instance, is a nod the freshness of the star ingredient from Brittany, France—and it was delicious, served dressed in a pairing of citric granita (made with tomato water, cayenne pepper and a touch of white wine vinegar) and popping candy. In contrast, the scallop, while also refreshing, was marinated for an hour in a light leche de tigre and water that was used to simmer corn for about 45 minutes.
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