Hot pot with an assortment of fixings. (Photo: Getty Images)
Cover Hot pot with an assortment of fixings

Discover dishes that pay tribute to new beginnings, from nian gao to bakkwa

The Lunar New Year is heralded as one of the most celebrated occasions in the world, denoting a time to honour ancestors and reunite with family. This year, hundreds of millions of people from different cultures will come together to collectively welcome the Year of the Dragon with distinct practices and rituals.

Culinary traditions, in particular, are inextricably linked to ideals of prosperity and good fortune, with each culture marking a time for renewal with dishes steeped in ancient meaning and symbolism. We’ve compiled a collection of celebratory foods from across the continent that play a role in Lunar New Year festivities. 

Read more: Barkar KL is rooted in open-flame cooking and Southeast Asian flavours, brought to you by the minds behind Eat and Cook

Vietnam (Bánh chưng)

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A cross-section of chung cake. (Photo: Getty Images)
Above A cross-section of chung cake

Bánh chưng or chung cake is a steamed glutinous rice cake most commonly stuffed with mung beans and minced pork. Eaten on Tết, the Vietnamese Lunar New Year, bánh chưng is believed to be an ode to the earth and the sky according to Vietnamese legend. Glutinous rice dough filled with layers of mung beans and pork spiced with black pepper, fish sauce and occasionally spring onions is wrapped in a lá dong leaf and fashioned into an almost faultless square. 

China (Nian Gao)

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Traditional nian gao. (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Traditional nian gao

While eaten in many parts of Asia, this glutinous rice cake is traditionally served in China at the beginning of the year. The etymology of the dish’s name implies continued prosperity and growth, making nian gao symbolic of these revered principles. The simplest of nian gao combines glutinous rice flour or ground sticky rice, brown sugar, and water, while elevations of the sticky cake include orange, red dates, coconut milk, or ginger.

See also: Welcome the Year of the Dragon in luxe fashion at The St Regis Kuala Lumpur

Malaysia and Singapore (Bakkwa)

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Lunar New Year snack spread featuring bakkwa. (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Lunar New Year snack spread featuring bakkwa

Fusing sweet and salty accords, bakkwa stemmed from an ancient Chinese curing technique when meat was conserved for times of festivity. Since its introduction to the region by Chinese immigrants, it has become extremely popular in Malaysia and Singapore, with most Lunar New Year spreads being incomplete without the addition of these snacks. The delicacy has inevitably been localised, using charcoal grilling instead of air-drying, with some variations including chilli. 

Taiwan (Hot Pot)

Tatler Asia
A group indulging in hot pot with an array of fixings. (Photo: Getty Images)
Above A group indulging in hot pot with an array of accompaniments

Togetherness is intrinsic to Lunar New Year celebrations, with food being at the heart of reunions. Hot pot is symbolic of this ideal in Taiwan, seating families and loved ones together around a communal meal of steaming broth. While many iterations of hot pot have been popularised, spicy hot pot is widely favoured. A bounty of ingredients is customarily served to welcome abundance into the coming year. 

Hong Kong (Poon Choi)

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Poon choi with seafood. (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Poon choi with seafood

Poon choi is a traditional Cantonese casserole brimming with an assortment of ingredients, with variety representing wealth and prosperity. Existing in Hong Kong for over seven centuries, the dish symbolised unity in walled villages since its preparation required extensive collaboration. Each ingredient in Poon choi is individually prepared and painstakingly layered in a large bowl, with fish maw, duck, and daikon being common inclusions. The dish has a rich history rooted in paying tribute to ancestry, community, and new beginnings. 

Don't miss: Yee sang: The ingredients, their symbolism and the auspicious greetings

Thailand (Kanom Pia)

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Decoratively stamped kanom pia. (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Decoratively stamped kanom pia

Typically filled with salted egg yolk and sweet bean paste, Kanom Pia have been coined Thai mooncakes. The treat’s flaky pastry exterior encases a fudge-like core and is often stamped with a symbol of prosperity. Kanom Pia is sometimes steeped in candle smoke to infuse the bakes with a distinct smokey profile.

Indonesia (Kue Mangkok)

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Red kue mangkok (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Red kue mangkok

Also known as Imlek, Lunar New Year is celebrated in Indonesia similarly to other parts of the world, with the colour red welcoming prosperity and family reunions. A traditional food specific to Chinese-Indonesian cuisine is the kue mangkok. Steamed and typically dyed red for the season, the dessert is a local adaptation of South Chinese fa gao, made unique with tropical produce like coconut milk, palm sugar, and fermented cassava. 

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