During a two-day collaboration with Vicky Lau of Tate Dining Room in Hong Kong this month, the chef and restaurateur sat down with Tatler to reflect on her journey
This month, chef Pam Soontornyanakij of Bangkok’s Potong restaurant, which has one Michelin star and is awarded 35th place on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023, joined forces with Tatler Dining’s 2023 Chef of the Year Vicky Lau to create an 11-course tasting menu at the latter’s Tate Dining Room in Hong Kong.
The two chefs, who met and bonded at the 2022 Michelin Guide gala dinner in Bangkok, presented Thai Chinese and French Chinese flavours, with the philosophy of melding tradition and progressive flavours in mind: think Potong’s homemade egg noodles with morel and Oscietra caviar, and Tate Dining Room’s charcoal grilled sea bass with tomato beurre blanc and fermented cabbage.
Soontornyanakij, a rising star in the Thai capital’s fine-dining scene, opened Potong in 2021. Its food is a celebration of Soontornyanakij’s Thai Chinese heritage, and the restaurant is housed in a 120-year-old Sino-Portuguese building, which belongs to the chef’s family, in the heart of Bangkok’s Chinatown.
During her time in Hong Kong, Soontornyanakij sat down with Tatler to talk about the collaboration and her culinary philosophies.
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On meeting Vicky Lau
I had known of chef Vicky for a long time—she’s very famous, and a really inspiring woman to me—but I hadn’t met her until the gala dinner. [Meeting her] inspired me more—her character, her style of cooking—it shows in her food. We got talking [and said]: “Let’s do something together.” Since borders are now open, this was a chance for me to come here [Hong Kong], to visit her kitchen, and cook here.