Cognac’s versatility makes it a great tipple to pair with a variety of sweet and savoury foods, says Kenny Leong. Case in point: a special dinner menu created for Singapore Tatler’s guests at Adrift by David Myers to go with a flight of fine Martell cognacs.

A good cognac sets chef David Myers adrift with ideas of food pairings

Guests lingered over Martell VSOP old-fashioneds and highball cocktails as waitstaff served up exquisitely crafted canapes at the cocktail lounge of Adrift by David Myers in Marina Bay Sands.

That balmy Tuesday evening in March held in store a special treat for 40 Singapore Tatler guests, comprising cognac aficionados and enthusiasts: a sumptuous repast created by celebrity chef David Myers and the restaurant’s executive chef William Gumport, matched to a selection of Martell’s best.

Martell brand ambassador Blandine Cochard promised nuanced food-cognac pairings and they delivered

In the restaurant’s private dining room where guests adjourned to, Martell brand ambassador Blandine Cochard and Myers gave a short introduction that proffered an insight into the story of Martell and the evening’s menu.

The starter, baby beets with poached oysters and edamame dressed with seaweed vinaigrette, was paired with Martell Cordon Bleu “A Tribute to Martell’s 300 year anniversary”. Designed to be softer, rounder and mellower, the Cordon Bleu was originally created in 1912 as a cognac for the ladies.


The starter of baby beets and oysters was paired with Martell Cordon Bleu

Using fruit harvested mostly from vineyards in the Borderies region, it offers notes of almond, fruits and nuts. In the making of this limited edition, more than 100 different eaux de vie were drawn from Martell’s cellars, and then aged in oak casks made from a 300-year-old oak tree. The influence of oak on the whisky was light but present, and lent a rounded depth that matched exceedingly well with the rich umami savouriness of the dish.

This was followed with a spring garlic soup with lamb yakitori paired with Martell XO. Made with fruit harvested from vineyards from the Borderies as well as Petite and Grande Champagne regions, the XO has a predominantly fruity profile but is also quite assertive in its expression, distinguished by its austerity, sweetness, intensity and power with upfront characteristics. It stood up to the creaminess of the dish, its bold fruit flavours making for a nice contrast to the dish’s piquancy.

Next up was braised Brandt beef with sunchoke puree, asparagus and rock chive, matched with Martell Chanteloup Perspective. Crafted from fruit grown in Grande and Petite Champagne, Fins Bois, and Borderies, this cognac pays tribute to the Chanteloup estate—the historic home of the Martell family.

A guest enjoys a glass of cognac

The blend comprises mature eaux de vie, the youngest of which is 20 years old, Cochard explained. Rich and dense with alluring fruitiness and a lovely satiny texture, the cognac presents ripe fruits and nuts on the nose and palate, leading to characters of marmalade and fruit preserves. Complex and nuanced, it lent layers of depth and delicacy to the beef.


Chocolate mousse wrapped up the night with the Martell Creation Grand Extra

The dinner came to a close with a serving of chocolate mousse with caramel and vanilla ice cream, paired with Martell Création Grand Extra. This cognac has notes of caramel, chocolate, orange peel, nuts, pear and white-fleshed fruits, with generous complexity and a fine texture. Its citric lift on the finish gives it a vibrancy and lightness that matched incredibly well with the darker restrained flavour and soft texture of the chocolate mousse.

“Martell cognac is such a beautiful spirit that it is always fun for a chef to break out of the norm and create a menu for something so pleasurable,” shared Myers. “In designing the pairing, we considered what ingredients are in season, and who are the type of guests coming. Do we want the dinner to be more playful, or serious?

“In the end, it’s the cognac that’s the star of the evening, and we’re just coming along for the ride. The door’s open, the heat is on, and we’ll have cognac by the fireside.” 

Photos: Max Chan/101 Teamwork