The arrival of award-winning chef Clayton Wells’ delectably laid-back style of cuisine at Blackwattle marks a new era for Singapore’s elevated dining scene.
I have always held that if there were ever a place for a new era of dining well to take root and make a notable stand, it would be in a cosmopolitan food capital such as Singapore. Fine dining has long outgrown its rather limiting embrace, led by a revolutionary band of culinary cowboys who are armed with enviable experience at some of the world’s best restaurants and have a passion for honest food.
So, you can easily imagine the buzz among the discerning when news broke that one of Australia’s best in that category would be opening a 60-seat restaurant and bar on Amoy Street. It would be puerile to presume the excitement stemmed from the simple fact that there was a new player in town, one that had earned a reputation for bringing something innovative to the table. If anything, the arrival of Blackwattle, the first Asian outpost of Sydney chef Clayton Wells—which is also his second venture with local hotelier‑restaurateur Loh Lik Peng of the Unlisted Collection—affirms the growing interest in cuisines that transcend geographical boundaries. Wells cut his teeth at the likes of Tetsuya’s and Quay, before setting up the award-winning Automata at Sydney’s Old Clare Hotel, which was opened by Loh.
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As he divides his time between Sydney and Singapore, Blackwattle is helmed by former Automata sous chef and a long-time collaborator Joeri Timmermans, who first met Wells in 2013 when they both worked at Sydney’s Momofuku Seiobo.
Much like Nouri, its challenger for hottest new restaurant this year, the menu at Wells’ Blackwattle—a name it borrows from a native Australian tree—impresses with its bold flavours dressed in an uncomplicated style. It reflects Automata’s winning DNA, and also forms part of a growing crop of chef-led modern Australian restaurants that include the likes of Whitegrass and Cheek By Jowl. As such, the food here is not easily pigeonholed, as it aims to tell a more personal story using quality ingredients and, well, less than traditional methods.
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